Monday, September 28, 2009

AILING ARMANI BOUNCES BACK WITH UPBEAT SPRING-SUMMER COLLECTION

       Giorgio Armani presented a bright and upbeat spring-summer 2010 collection at Milan Fashion Week on Thursday, an apt response to speculation over succession at his Milan fashion house after the designer's recent illness.
       The normally urban-influenced Armani went for a bright summer look with cheerful hounds-tooth prints and youthful short styles.
       The show opened with loose harem pants paired with cropped tailored jackets, clutches and ankle-strap sandals. The outfits set the tone for the collection, which featured lots of loose-fitting and comfortable peices paired with more structured looks - a bubble skirt and cropped jacket, or loose blousey tops and short pleated skirts.
       Everything was short, even evening wear, which included loose shorts, or sparkly shorts under slightly shorter dresses.
       Deep open V backs were ideal for showing off well-tanned backs, sometimes criss-crossed by strips of fabric.
       Janet Jackson, spending the week in Milan ahead of a charity dinner she is chairing next week, made an appearance a tthe second show,
       A well-tanned Armani, dressed completely in black, waved to the crowd after the show before disappearing backstage.
       "No purchases, no sales," the designer told reporters after the show, answering speculation about succession at the fashion house.
       Armani told Italian media in May that he had been battling hepatitis. Several missed public appearances in the spring and a gaunt appearance at the June menswear shows in Milan had raised concerns about his health. But he has recently said he is feeling well and is winning the battle with the disease.
       Armani, 75, has remained firmly in control of the fashion house he founded, despite speculation over eventual succession.

Co-founder of Gap Inc dies at 81

       Donald Fisher, who co-founded Gap Inc with his wife Doris forty years ago, died on Sunday after a battle with cancer, the clothing retailer said. He was 81.
       The company that the Fishers began as a little denim store in San Francisco now operates more than 3,100 stores in the United States, the United Kingdom,Canada, France, Japan and Ireland, and it has been credited with inventing the specialty retail category.
       The Fishers opened their first store in San Francisco in 1969, and named it The Gap in reference to the generational differences between baby boomers and their parents.
       When it first opened, the Gap mainly sold Levi's jeans, tapes and records, and it flourished in 1970s as consumers snapped up its denim.
       In 1983, the Gap hired Millard Drexler as president, and he successfully overhauled the retailer's image from a seller of Levi's and other denim brands to one of the most popular private-label apparel brands in US history.
       But in the past decade the retailer
       has stumbled, hurt by aggressive expansion plans, rising competition and fashion missteps. Gap has been working in recent years to overhaul its operations, which now include the chains Donald Fisher Banana Republic,Old Navy, Piperlime and Athleta.
       Most recently, the Gap chain launched a major denim campaign, offering jeans with better fits and higher-end styling in hopes of bringing back once-loyal customers who gravitated to more fashionable rivals.
       In 1995, Fisher stepped down as Gap's CEO, and in 2004, he quitted as chairman of the board. He continued to serve as chairman emeritus until his death.
       Fisher was widely recognised for his commitment to philanthropy and the San Francisco Bay community where he was born.
       He also served on the boards of trustees of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. This past week the museum announced plans to permanently house the Fisher Collection, one of the world's leading private collections of contemporary art, upon completion of its expansion.
       San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsome said Fisher was a "great San Franciscan,a loving husband and father, and a dear friend. His unwavering commitment to our city's arts and civic culture will be remembered for generations to come."
       Fisher is survived by his wife Doris,their three sons and 10 grandchildren.He is also survived by two brothers and their wives, Jim and Diane Fisher and Bob and Ann Fisher.

MELTING POT MAKES LONDON A LEADER IN THE WORLD OF FASHION

       Londer Fashion Week may be celebrating its 25th birthday this season with a display of Britishness, but the creativity of the city is largely down to the mix of foreign talent that gathers here.
       Half of the designers showing this season are from abroad, hailing from such places as India, Japan, Germany and Greece, brought together by one thing - they all studied here.
       London's fashion schools are among the best in the world, in particular Central St Martins College of Art and Design, which counts Stella McCartney, Giles Deacon, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen among its alumni.
       The foreign talent creates an eclectic mix that ensures London remains the place to see the hottest new designers, from Christopher Kane and Mark Fast to Emilio de la Morena and Bora Aksu.
       At least 50 per cent of the designers - although they are considered to be London designers - they actually come other countries, says Simon Ward, co-executive director of the British Fashion Council.
       "And that's really part of what makes London. It starts with our fashion colleges, which act as a magnet for students from all around the world, because London is a very cosmopolitan city and it's an inspirational place creatively."
       Among London's leading lights this season, Wakako Kishimoto, one half of Eley Kishimoto, is from Japan, Marios Schwab is from Germany, Mary Katrantzou is from Greece, Mark Fast is from Canada and Bora Aksu is from Turkey.
       Likewise, Roksanda Ilincic is from Serbia, Ashish is from India, Eun Jeong is from Korea and Emilio de la Morena is from Spain.
       All of these designers studied at Central St Martins, along with other famous British names such as Matthew Williamson and Antonio Berardi, who both returned to London this season after spells in New York and Paris.
       Berardi epitomises the mix of London fashion. He was born in England but his parents are Sicilian, and he takes inspiration from both.
       "I think the Sicilian part is the very ultra-feminine part, and the British part is the part that is much more tailored and structured, and slightly more aggressive," he says. "But I think the two are the perfect combination for any woman."
       Central St Martins is celebrating its 20th birthday this year, but it has a long history, having been formed by a merger of the Central School of Arts and Crafts, which was founded in 1896, and St Martin's School of Art (1854)
       Its master's degree show was on the official schedule here in February, while Vogue described this summer's BA (Hons) graduate show as "the place to get ahead of the fashion game."
       Both the Royal College of Art and the London College of Fashion can also boast impressive alumni, and the latter on Monday added a new name to its lists following this year's Fashion Fringe award.
       Briton Jenny Holmes and Greece's Dimitris Theocharidis, who met at the London College of Fashion in 2002, won the prestigious prize for their collection under the brand Jena Theo.
       It brings with it vital publicity - the award was announced by Donatella Versace in a star-studded ceremony in London- and funding.
       Their collection was a confident display of trousers, full length and short dresses made of soft, ballooning fabrics in pale blue, grey and peach, reminiscent of old faded Polaroid pictures.

Iconic style transcending generations

       Leading fashion house Emilio Pucci is presenting its celebrated "Pucci Girl Exhibition" for the first time in Thailand, featuring images of the brand's iconic styles loved by generations of women around the world. The exhibition is now on view every day at Gaysorn shopping centre at Ratchaprasong intersection.
       From silver screen goddess Marilyn Monroe and '60s international film star Sophia Loren to today's most influential leading ladies like Nicole Kidman and Jennifer Lopez, and supermodels such as Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Cindy Crawford, Emilio Pucci's style has adorned generations of the world's most highly visible women.
       The images on show consist of a colourful fusion of editorial shots from cutting-edge fashion magazines as well as archive reportage that reflects the brand's vibrant and flamboyant style.
       The core inspiration underpinning the form of the exhibition is the sinuous, geometric outlines of Pucci's iconic Vivara print motif. This captures the spirit of waves of colour in perpetual movement, a reflection of the Mediterranean Sea,from which Pucci drew his inspiration.
       An exhibition backdrop has been created representing "water" and "lightness", elements taken from Mediterranean locations.Transparent or sanded acrylics are used to im-The images on show reflect the brand's iconic styles loved by bue the realised design with a generations of women around the world.sense of lightness. The objective was to produce the most neutral background possible, without going down the obvious route of white minimalism. The overall result is an ethereal, quasi-transparent canvas that ideally complements and showcases the colour palette that Pucci celebrates.
       The Emilio Pucci brand shot into the fashion scene in the 1950s when the founder created a streamlined ski outfit for a friend who was photographed for Harper's Bazaar .The brand soon became synonymous with jet-set glamour, captivating a new generation of modern and active women. In the 1990s, Emilio's daughter, Laudomia Pucci, took over the business, and in April 2000, she formed an alliance between the Pucci family and French luxury group LVMH that continues until today. Peter Dundas is the brand new creative director.
       For the Pucci Fall/Winter 2009-2010 collection, Peter Dundas took his inspiration from the
       noble heritage of the Palio collection (1957), and juxtaposed it with the freedom and ease of today's vibe.
       Mini-dresses in prints that recall iconic pieces of the past have been reworked to seem washed and faded,then teamed with slouchy butter-soft suede pirate boots. Silk jersey dresses have been reinterpreted with matelasse appliques like fragments of prints with long silhouettes in bright colours held up by gourmette chains.
       The strong contrasts can also be seen with black, bottle green and aubergine-coloured dresses that fade into prints and are worn under coats of mohair-patched fur, leather and gold braiding.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Kenzo reveals new season collection

       Fashion house Kenzo recently hosted a stunning autumn-winter 09/10 runway show at the World Fashion Trends event, held at Siam Paragon's Hall of Mirrors, to an audience of celebrities and exclusive guests.
       Russian icons - from Matryoshka dolls and Doctor Zhivago to ballet dancers - were the inspiration behind the work of Kenzo's Italianborn designer Antonio Marras.
       Bringing out the essence of Russian masculinity on a global runway, Marras's first men's collection is the result of subtle work that contrasts volume with material.

Jeans with character

       Introducing yet another creative event last week was the global fashion brand, Diesel,in which Thai artists and celebrities alike were invited to express their artistic side on a pair of jeans.
       Entitled "Diesel Denim Tattoo", the event was hosted at Diesel's flagship store at Siam Discovery Centre. Artists Thaweesak "Lolay"Srithongdee and Nadda Thanathan were also present and conducted a workshop for guests,who were invited to reflect on their inner personalities and convey their imaginative designs on a pair of jeans by "tattooing" or painting them on.
       As part of the same event, passers-by who entered through the main entrance were greeted with an exciting installation inspired by Diesel's latest Autumn-Winter 2009 collection.

"GANDHI-CHIC" HITS INDIA'S RUNWAYS AS WESTERN FASHIONS INVADE

       "Gandhi chic" - wearing hand-woven fabrics championed by India's independence leader - will be on fashion's cutting edge if the be on fashion's cutting edge if the Communist government and leading designers in West Bengal get their way.
       The eastern state, a region famous for its traditional weaves, hosted a fashion show last Saturday night to promote homespun fabrics, or khadi, made famous by Mahatma Gandhi in the 1930s.
       He wore them as a statement of national pride during his struggle against British rule and a new generation is hoping to revive them in a display of "Indian-ness" as Western styles make ever-deeper inroads here.
       "The show reflects a new trend. Indian youths are taking its as new fashion," said Tajas Gandhi, a well-known local designer who is not related to the Mahatma.
       Tajas, 32, who paraded his collection at Kolkata Fashion Week earlier this month, was a guest of honour at the event in a newly-constructed fairground near a five-star hotel in central Kolkata.
       The vibrant fabrics on display were a far cry from the modest, plain cloth worn by Mahatma Gandhi, but the principle of supporting village skills remains the same.
       Other leading Bengali designers such as Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who has dressed leading ladies in Bollywood, have been promoting homespun fabrics as a unique Indian look.
       "It's a show with an Indian soul. Hand-woven fabrics are set to hit the international market."
       For the state's Communist rulers, showcasing the fabrics is an important way of sustaining jobs.
       "The government is promoting 'Gandhi chic' to rejuvenate the hand-woven cotton and silk industry in the state, where unemployment is growing," said West Bengal small cottage industries minister Mamabendra Mukherjee as the show kicked off.
       Thousands of people thronged the venue to watch the show, which featured well-known film stars and actors in this city of nearly 14 million people.
       "It's not a revolution, but the show has swept the heart of the people," said Mohammed Salim, chairman of the government-run khadi and village industries commission, which organised the show.
       Most of the fabrics are woven on handlooms at villages in rural Bengal using wooden wheels.
       The glamour and glitz of the catwalk is a far cry from the existence of many of the weavens, who often live in abject poverty in villages, dependent on money lenders who give them loans and raw materials.
       Demand for hand-woven fabrics has suffered over the last few decades as synthetics swamped the market. But Bengali designers say new styles and bright shades are increasingly attracting young people.
       "We know weavers are in a sorry state. They don't get what they deserve. We are trying to improve their condition," added Salim.
       Wearing red-bordered white cotton saris, one of West Bengal's best-known film actresses Locket Chatterjee was one of the stars of the event as she strode down the catwalk.
       Other models displayed mixed Indo-Western designs, with red, green and black shades in handspun silk.
       "Designers have tried to give a new look to the hand-woven fabrics said designer Lima Dev.
       "We have tried to use the show to change that outlook," he said.

ALL TO LONDON AT HIS FEET

       British designer Matthew Williamson made his hotly anticipated return to London Fashion Week on September 6, injecting some serious glamour into the event as it celebrated its 25th anniversary.
       His spring-summer 2010 collection was typically colourful, ranging from grey to florescent pink and enhanced by intricate beading, metallic fabrics and shards of mirrors that created a strong, sexy, sophisticated look.
       After years of showing in New York, the return of the Manchester-born designer caused huge excitement in London - even if it still isn't clear whether this heralds a new commitment to the city that made his name.
       "It's great that he's coming back to London," his friend Twiggy said ahead of the show. "I wish they would all come back to London - that's where they originated, that's where they trained."
       "I love him," the celebrated 1960s model said of Williamson. "He's gorgeous. I think his clothes are wonderful because they're so feminine, and I love his bright colours.
       "Often fashion shows are all black and grey and cream, and then you come to Matthew and it's like, 'Ooh!'"
       Williamso is one of a number of big designers back for the 25th anniversary celebrations, others being Antonio Berardi, Pringle of Scotland, Burberry Prorsum and Jonathan Saunders.
       Their presence was a major boost for the six-day event, which has in the past struggled to be heard among the fashion-week big guns of Paris, New York and Milan.
       The London week saw some magical shows, notably from Italian-born Kinder Aggugini, who built on years of designing for Versace, John Galliano and Calvin Klein to create a truly beautiful solo collection.
       But the attraction of having a designer like Williamson, who counts Sienna Miller, Gwyneth Paltrow and Kate Moss among his clients, was undeniable.
       And he didn't disappoint this month, kick-starting his show with a beaded metallic linen dress matched with a stone leather jacket, followed by a gold beaded jacket and high-waist, metallic shorts.
       The metallic theme dominated, with his crushed metallic skirts married with bodies adorned with shards of mirrors, and a crushed metallic parka over a silk chiffon shirt- bold outfits for strong women.
       And there were jewels everywhere, from black beaded hotpants paired with a brightly printed swimsuit to intricate green and stone-beaded cocktail dresses, and a soft grey leather jacket with gold beads on the shoulders.
       "I liked the way he moved forward from that sort of boho [bohemian] look to a much more body conscious, more sophisticated but still very sexy look," said Daily Telegraph fashion editor Hilary Alexander.
       "A lot of it was inspired by sea urchins, hence all that rather spiky embroidery. I thought the colour combinations were beautiful.
       "But this is what we want from Matthew, we want colour and excitement - and he never fails to deliver."
       Williamson was in London in 2007 for a one-off show featuring a surprise performance by pop star Prince to celebrate 10 years since he set up his design house there. But for the past seven years he's been a regular in New York.

CLOTHES FOR ALL SEASONS

       New York Fashion Week thinks of spring - and every other time of year
       The styles shown over the eight days of New York Fashion Week were meant for next spring - not that you'd know it.
       The collections in previews that wrapped up last Thursday were more covered-up than usual. Leather, suede, long sleeves and black were all over the runways.
       There were nods to the season - leather was lightened up to be more luxurious and buttery than the rock-star looks in stores for autumn, often in caramels, yellow, silver or white.
       Proenza Schouler showed a leather mesh style, similar to the material golfers use for their gloves.
       But the clothes speak to the idea of seasonless dressing, which is all the buzz among retailers since the temperate-zone weather - and the economy - are so unpredictable.
       RALH LAUREN
       Basic means something else when you're Ralph Lauren. It means silver-sequined slashed jeans, organza "work-shirt" dresses and even a metallic blue-lame gown with all the trademark details of coveralls.
       Lauren, who embodies the classic American sportswear look, said he wanted to craft spring-season clothes that reflected America's "resilient spirit" - and its work ethic.
       The simplest looks on the catwalk, which was lined with the Lauren clan and Janet Jackson, were the floral dresses that featured sweet, delicate floral prints reminiscent of those farm wives wore in the 1930s.
       Denim was more dominant than usual, with silhouettes ranging from a tailored, suit-style jacket to rolled-ankle work jeans.
       The real highlights were the outfits that somehow seamlessly mixed the two worlds of luxury and the Everywoman, like a pink gauze gown with silver embroidery worn with an indigo-coloured striped jacket.
       ISAAC MIZRAHI
       Forget clothes for a minute: Isaac Mizrahi knows how to put on a show.
       With a rain spray, wind machine, spotlights and a staircase incorporated into his catwalk, Mizrahi even sent out one model in a golf cart wearing a black-sequin shorts suit - and a whitte top hat, of course.
       The eveningwear is what sparkled: A strapless black cocktail dress with a giant white rose on the bust line, and a fluted gown covered in black lace and tufts of tulle, both captured classic Mizrahi and his theme of a retro country club.
       Mizrahi also needs a fix of kookiness, though, and this go around he accomplished that with an iridescent lava-lamp-fringe coat. He always sends off his audience with a smile.
       PROENZA SCHOULER
       Feathers or tinsel? Take your pick from the Proenza Schouler runway.
       The design duo of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had plenty to keep the fashion flock - including Leighton Meester and Courtney Love - buzzing. The first set of skirts and dresses had the jacket-tied-around-the-waist look with the silhouettes permanently fixed with zippers and buttoms on the backside.
       Skirts were often paired with navy tailored jackets with very sculptured shoulders, an evolution of a current trend.
       Next up were short shift dresses that alternated feathers and tinsel at the hemline. Some had a feather print to boot, others had a variety of prints that looked like tropical fish or reptiles in unexpected and brighter-than-normal colours for this label.
       Then came the lingerie-inspired cocktail dresses, some with bra tops and cut-out midriffs - another Fashion Week trend - and tiers of mini-ruffles as the skirt.
       ANNA SUI
       It took some guts to put band-majorette hats on the runway, but the glory in the faces of a clearly entertained audience must have made it worthwhile for Anna Sui.
       The bouncy, youthful dresses in the spring collection Sui presented were born from the designer's love of the 1967 movie "Doctor Dolittle". The Victorian circus was the most inspriational part of the film, she said, That came through in bow blouses, and cropped-pants and shorts suits, albeit shrunken ones.
       A handful of preppy, cable-knit, tennis-sweater looks didn't seem to quite fit the theme, but they were cute anyway.
       Anyone who follows Sui's look knows she is a bit of a '60s junkie - it came through this season in modshaped shift dresses and psychedelic colours, especially purples, yellows, greens and turquoise blue.
       Most of the outfits captured the optimistic vibe that Sui said she thinks the industry - and consumers - are ready for now.
       MARCHESA
       Marchesa turned out some real showstoppers, dresses tailor-made for the label's red-carpet fans.
       The greatest feat was a black-and-white duchess satin strapless grown folded like a fan in the front and with a fully laser-cut skirt.
       Designer Georgina Chapman said the late Anthony Minghella's production of "Madame Butterfly" served as her inspiration. "The music is so beautiful. I listened to it recently and though about now feminine and fragile it was, and that it was about love."
       The Asian aesthetic was carried throughout most of the collection, including an oyster-hued, hand-painted floral obi coat and an embroidered obi jacket, worn with black evening shorts. Chapman also played with some sheer fabrics, often in a nude tone, which ended up a game of strategic peek-a-boo.
       Unfortunately, if you're not in Oscar-nominated actress, there might not be many occasions to wear any of the dresses.

JIM THOMPSON CAMPAIGNS TO SAVE SILK FARMS

       In a small village in Nong Sang district, middle aged women cultivate silkworms, once a prized industry in the Northeast.
       "Thirty years ago, almost every home in the Northeast weave silk. Today, there are only a few thousand households that are actively producing it," says Thongchai Popaibul, a purchasing manager for Thai Silk Company, the maker of Jim Thompson silk products.
       This proud culture is in danger of disappearing, he warned.
       "Most young men and women here go to the cities to find work, leaving the elderly to tend the farms," Thongchai said.
       "This trend is true of most provinces, including nearby Khon Kaen and Mukdahan."
       There is none of the hustle and bustle of big cities in Nong Sang, only the barking of small terriers and other toy dogs, some of the few visible imports from Bangkok.
       The farmers here cultivate rice, apparent by the vast fields of paddy that surround the small village.
       But there are also patches of mulberry, the essential food of skillsworms, proof the cottage industry still has legs.
       Thongchai, 48, is a veteran buyer of raw silk, which the company depends on for its Bt1-billion global business.
       In a push to secure more farmers to cultivate the traditional crop, the Jim Thompson Group supports contract-farming schemes to provide additional incomes for farmers.
       The programme enables increased earnings and serves as a safety net when price volatility disrupts the market.
       "Silk is one of the more profitable industries in Thailand. Farmers do not need to spend a huge sum of money on machinery and other expensive equipment," Thongchai said.
       There is also no need to bear the cost of high electricity bills. Much of the work is performed by manual labour.
       "All they need is minimum 2-rai plot of land and hard work to make sure the silkworms are properly fed," Thongchai said.
       Once the cocoons are ready, they are boileld for the silk or sold to the company to complete the process, which takes no more than 26 days.
       Sirirat Rattanakajorn, another executive of the silk company, said the industry needed protection.
       Dwindling supplies in recent years have forced the company to buy from foreign suppliers.
       "Our silk programme in the Northeast is part of our corporate-social-responsibility initiative to promote and revive the industry," she says.
       To ensure high-quality silk output, the firm assigns supervisors to visit the farms and assist the producers.
       In Khon Kaen, a 90-minute drive away, another manager, Chatchai Puliwakin, 57, buys bales of silk at the company's branch.
       "This may seem like a busy time for us, but its actually quite slow compared with the long queues we had 30 years ago."
       The shop, located across from the main bus terminal, was chosen so that farmers coming in could trade conveniently without having to commute long distances.
       The shop is known for its fairness in the purely cash business.
       Originally from Bangkok, Chatchai said he preferred life in Khon Kaen.
       "I was 27 when I came here. Its amazing how the years slip away so quickly," he said." "Khon Kaen was Jim Thompson's first upcountry branch. This is still the centre for silk traders. Even the best weaves from Surin come here for supplies."
       Today, the company is buiding a replica of silk communities in neigh-bouring Nakhon Ratchasima as part of a cultural park for tourists.
       "So much has changed in the last 15 years that most of the wooden homes of farmers are gone," Chatchai said.
       "We had to search for these old homes and transport them to Nakohn Ratchasima to be reassembled. Most farmers now live in brick houses."
       He said there was a need to preserve the romantic setting, in order to remind future generations of the rich heritage that was almost lost in our mad rush to modernise.

Technology helps shift fashion sales power base

       The Internet and advances in technology are transforming fashion,making it easier for designers to create collections and less expensive for them to show and sell their work, experts say.
       Instead of spending tens of thousands of dollars on a runway show at New York Fashion Week, some designers presented collections for spring and summer 2010 online, while others are expanding the reach of their brand by making it easier for shoppers to buy their clothes online.
       Designer Norma Kamali and Polo Ralph Lauren Corp's Rugby brand both have applications for Apple Inc's iPhone that allows shoppers to buy clothes from their phone.
       "This is the technology that's changing our lives," said Kamali, who displayed her spring and summer 2010 collection as well as exclusive lines for eBay Inc and walmart.com at the Apple store in Manhattan's Soho neighborhood.
       Kamali's iPhone application has a "Try Before You Buy" option, which allows clothes to be sent overnight to a customer,who provides her credit card information,so she can try them on at home before committing to buy.
       Menswear designer Miguel Antoinne and womenswear designer Marc Bouwer both put on virtual fashion shows, while models at Vivienne Tam's show carried gold "digital clutches"- a HewlettPackard Co netbook adorned with a Tam design.
       Mazdack Rassi, co-founder and creative director of Milk Studios, a hip downtown space that showed about 70 collections during New York Fashion Week,said he hopes to broaden the reach of Fashion Week and was considering projecting shows on the side of a building so people at a nearby park could watch.
       "It goes back to opening it up to the consumer," Rassi said during a panel discussion on the future of fashion.
       "That can only be done through technology."
       Democratic fashion
       With cable television and the Internet,designers know that their shows can be seen by many more people than just the buyers, editors and media who attend,and in some cases, they are designing accordingly.
       "Back in the day, shows were squarely aimed at editors and buyers," said Lazaro Hernandez, half of the duo behind the label Proenza Schouler.
       "Now, when you do a show, you think about the fact that everyone's going to see it on the Internet the next day. It's become much more democratic."
       That democracy goes both ways, according to Humberto Leon, co-founder of retailer Opening Ceremony.
       "The Internet has really challenged buyers because now information is everywhere ... it's really challenged buyers to buy well," Leon said, noting that e-mail has given Opening Ceremony better access to new designers.
       Designers, including those behind Proenza Schouler, are finding that technology can also help the actual design work by allowing artists to explore new ideas and processes.
       But Simon Collins, the dean of fashion at Parsons The New School for Design,said even though technology is helpful,there is still no substitute for talent and hard work.
       "Absolutely, there'll be people out there that have incredibly successful businesses that don't know the first thing about [draping and construction], just think it up, put it on the computer, fire it off to the factory and it works," Collins said."But they're the exception, not the rule."

Digitising Thailand's cultural attractions

       System aims to ease access to treasures and boost tourism, reports Sasiwimon Boonruang
       This will empower villagers to generate revenue
       Wandering through cultural attractions and museums will become more rewarding once you are able to view items and locations over the web to aid trip-planning.
       The Culture Ministry and Science and Technology Ministry have collaborated to digitise cultural and art content to enhance access to and preservation of cultural heritage resources.
       Ayutthaya is the first province in which the Culture Ministry has integrated historical information and presented it to visitors, in both still photographs and videos.
       Visitors can also look around the surrounding area via geographical information system (GIS) over the Internet, by computer or mobile phone. The website will be launched soon.
       At the Chao Sam Praya museum, in stead of receiving a conventional paper ticket, visitors will get a wristband with radio frequency identification (RFID) tag to identify the registered visitors.
       The RFID-embedded wristband also guides the visitors by presenting information on exhibits and proposing further interesting visitor destinations in the area.
       The province can keep a database of which tourist destinations these people have visited, as well as the route they used to get there.
       "This information will benefit the province as it will be able to provide information and promote destinations to the prospective visitors," said Virach Sornlertlamvanich, assistant executive director of National Electronics and Computer Technology Centre (Nectec).
       For the Museum, RFID has been used to systematically manage the items in the museum so that the position of each visitor can be identified so as to keep track of what they have and have not yet seen, as well as to help prevent the loss of any items or exhibits.
       Culture Ministry deputy permanent secretary Somchai Seanglai said there are some 120,000 digital files of the cultural and art content which the ministry will transfer to video clips, with Nectec's help.
       The digital files have been developed and added to Google Maps of popular places in Ayutthaya province, such as Wat Yai Chaimongkol.
       "We will collect places of national and religious importance, along with descriptions of what styles of architecture they are, and the Buddha styles," Somchai said.
       Collecting information for the pilot project has taken three months.
       The Culture Ministry has added to the digital archives system information on Khon, the Thai classical dance.
       The software program, developed by Chulalongkorn University, has simulated the Khon costume to help shortcut the production process, as the designer and tailors can view the costume model before choosing materials, patterns and styles according to their requirements.
       This reduces the time and total cost of tailoring as they can reduce material waste.
       It is therefore anticipated that the software program will save the Fine Art Department a great deal of money.
       The museum management system supports the maintenance and borrowing system of the Khon costume, reducing deterioration and the risk of loss or theft.
       The digital archives system also promotes sustainable education and development of Khon.
       The Khon knowledge dissemination via computer network should ease educational access as the persons and experts involved with the performance can collect and develop it more efficiently, while the public and academics can use the same information for reference.
       While Ayutthaya Historical Park is the highlight of Ayutthaya, the living culture of Suphan Buri will be the next province to benefit from the digitisation of its arts and cultural content.
       Suphan Buri has the most complete mapping system in Thailand, as the province has already collected its data in a co-ordinates system, the deputy permanent secretary said, noting that the its premier visitor attractions include Wat Pra Noan and Wat Pai Rong Wua.
       The Culture Ministry will integrate cultural collections of digitised resources and improve access for the wider public.
       "This will also empower the villagers and small community groups to share their local wisdom and heritage, such as the design patterns of clothes, and from this they can generate revenue due to tourism, homestays and the sale of handicrafts," Somchai said.
       He added that this can help the communities to further develop businesses,for example in the visual arts, by giving artists an opportunity to showcase their works in an e-gallery or e-marketplace.
       "There will be information of the local performance such as Li-Kae , the musical folk drama and Lam-Tad , the performing art, with information and contact details of the bands," Somchai said, noting that the current target audience is Thai, although the ministry plans to translate the content into English and Chinese.
       Citing the Tourism Authority of Thailand, he said only 24 percent of foreign tourists visit the kingdom for cultural purposes, so this initiative intends to encourage greater numbers of cultural tourists to the country.
       He noted that the Route E-sarn (the Northeastern course) promotion, which features World Heritage locations such as Phu Phrabat Historical Park in Udon Thani, will be the next project for digital archive.
       In addition, the ministry will present the living culture of eight Northern provinces including Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai,Lampang, Lamphun, Phayao, Phrae,Nan and Mae Hong Son and historical and religious places.
       "It takes time for the process of digitising data and most of the budget has gone towards the data collection," he said.
       Virach said Nectec has set up the infrastructure and web portal for communities to collect photographs, video files, captions and keywords for searching.
       "We have designed the system to allows users, data owners and communities to simply deliver the data based on the social networking pattern," he said.
       The community database is comparable with a live encyclopedia that promotes cultural traditions, local wisdom and tourism and also presents crucial information about the communities in both of quantitative and comparative styles.
       Nectec has also developed the "Fiesta on Mobile" application that provides information on Thai festivals and other cultural events to users via mobile phone.
       The application helps users to search for information in various modes, such as automatic search, search with picture and search with GPS.
       The application can also define the locations and help guide users to the events.
       This information service will cover all five regions of Thailand, with Ayutthaya being the pilot project which is now is at the data-testing stage.
       "There are lists of popular tourist attractions such as Wat Yai Chaimongkol and local museums, as Nectec has developed the application to show tourists the top-hit spots by ranking," said Virach.
       All this technology will be showcased at Nectec's Annual Conference and Exhibition during September 23-25 at Science Park in Phatum Thani.
       According to Khunying Kalaya Sophonpanich, Science and Technology minister, the ultimate goal of the cooperative venture is to use science and technology capabilities as tools to enable people to easily access knowledge and information resources.
       It also strengthens the education,economic and social aspects of the country, she said.
       Culture minister Teera Slukpetch said the cultural content digitisation is a key strategy of the ministry in adding value to the cultural capital, as it has supported the creative economy and promoted cultural tourism at national and international level.
       The cultural information centre will collect the knowledge and wisdom of the rural communities and villages, and turn it into educational and economic resources.
       Based on the collaboration for cultural capital development, science and technology has been applied to public services such as libraries, civic halls,archeological sites, museums, historical parks, contemporary cultural arts, Thai performing arts and musical dance.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

THE VARYING DEGREES OF TRIUMPH

       You wouldn't think much could come of a girl who grew up in Suphan Buri, moved to Samut Prakan at age 15 and spent four decades toiling in a clothing factory, but Jittra Kotchadej's destiny is bigger than that.
       Jittra turned into a tenacious defender of workers' rights and, while she has plenty of admirers, she's earned a lot of enemies too.
       Rude and vicious comments abound on Internet forums, thanks primarily to her audacious decision to publicly criticise the practice at cinemas of standing up during the Royal Anthem.
       The 37-year-old also faces arrest for causing disruptions at Government House during a protest on behalf of dismissed co-workers.
       Jittra's long-time employer, Triumph International (Thailand), sacked her on July 29 last year and the Labour Court subsequently agreed it had the right to do so.
       She led the workers' union at the factory, whose parent company is best known for making women's undergarments.
       Her firing followed an appearance on television for an interview. She wore a T-shirt with a message that referred to rising for the anthem before movies are shown. It said, "Not standing up is not criminal, and thinking differently does not constitute a crime."
       In the same interview she also shared her views on abortion.
       Jittra was seen as having defamed Triumph, and, more to the point, at a time when the country was deeply divided between red and yellow ideologies.
       "I went through the worst time of my life during the trial," she says. "I had no chance to speak for myself, to tell others that the allegations weren't true.
       "At one point I considered running away. I just wanted to leave Thailand and find a new place to live. But then the truth hit me - that I didn't have the resources to spend my life overseas."
       Jittra believes her firing was a deliberate attempt to weaken the Triumph union.
       The company's decision was widely praised in online chat rooms, but Jittra's co-workers hailed her dedication to securing them more rights and benefits and staged a strike to get her reinstated.
       After 45 days, however, they returned to their jobs, fearful they might lose them. Jittra was nevertheless assured of a modest living as a consultant to the union.
       "They were in financial trouble because they had no income during the strike," Jittra says, "but they went back to work vowing to keep me in the union with their own money.
       "It was great to see thousands of people fighting for me. They understood that my dismissal was a blow against the union."
       In her advisory capacity, Jittra continues to attend protests. After Triumph let 1,959 workers go in June, the staff battled for re-employment.
       Under Jittra's guidance, the union received Midnight University's Charoen Wat-aksorn Medal this year in recognition of its "success".
       "We are strong," Jittra affirmed upon accepting the medal on August 23. "Nothing can bring us down."
       Four days later she led more than 300 workers to Government House with a petition asking Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva to investigate what they called Triumph's "unfair" dismissal of many employees.
       When they were stopped from handing the petition directly to Abhisit, the workers shut down the road outside.
       Police responded, without warning, by blasting the protesters for nearly an hour with long-range sound-generating devices intended to disturb them and drive them off.
       Jittra and two other protest leaders were threatened with arrest for causing inconvenience.
       "It's unfair," she lamented. "We're asking for justice, but the authorities treat us like this."
       She's adamant that the union tries to avoid causing further problems in these politically unbalanced times, but because of the circumstances of her firing, Jittra has been caught up in the political wrangling.
       Triumph employees around the world staged simultaneous rallies on August 26 to seek better terms, but those in Thailand waited until the next day because there was a red-shirt protest in Bangkok on the 26th, and they didn't want to be seen as supporting the anti-government red movement.
       The political skirmishing here often requires such precautions, Jittra says.
       Does she find any appeal in the red cause? Jittra insists she's fighting only for workers' rights.
       "We are ready to work with either the reds or the yellows if they want to help us, as long as they don't try to drag us into politics."

WARREN BUFFETT'S PLUG FOR DALIAN SENDS STOCK SOARING

       Billionaire Warren Buffett turned Dalian Dayang Trands into China's best-performing clothing stock after saying he wears the company's suits and praising it as "wonderful".
       Dayang, based in the northeastern city of Dalian, surged by the 10 per cent daily limit for a fourth day in Shanghai after Dayang posted a video on its website of Buffett congratulating the company and chairman Li Guilian on its 30th anniversary.
       The stock closed at 14.67 yuan (Bt72), its highest since January 2008.
       "I have to tell you that I now have nine suits all made in China. I threw away the rest of my suits," Bershire Hathway's chairman and CEo Buffett, 79, says in the video, adding that his business partner Charlie Munger and Microsoft Corp chairman Bill Gates also wear Dayang's outfits.
       Dayang is up 261 per cent this year, the most of 25 appael comapnies traded in Shanghai and SHenzhen.
       The company, with 2008 sales of 894.6 million yuan, and a market value of less than $350 million (Bt12 billion), does not have any "disclosable business relationship" with Buffett, it said.
       "Buffett has a lot of influence on the stock market and so when Dalian Dayang shows him wearing their suits, that has an impact," said Kong Jun, a Shanghai-based analyst at China Jianyin Investment Securities.
       Kong recommends investors buy Dalian Dayang's shares.
       Buffett assistant Carries Kizer confirmed Buffett recorded the video at Li's request.
       "It was something they asked him to do and he agreed," Kizer said in an e-mail.
       Dayang's spokesman could not be reached for comment.
       "It's been a long time since I got compliments on how I look but since I'm wearing Madam Li's suits, I get compliments all the time," he says.
       Buffett, the world's second-richest lman with an estimated fortune of $37 billion according to Forbes magazine, jokes inthe video that "maybe Bill and I could start a clothing store-and sell the compaby's suits, adding that "some day we might even be rich, who knows?"
       Gates is the world's richest man with wealth of $40 billion, according to Forbes.
       Li founded Dayang in September 1979 with 85 employees, according to its website.
       She now has around 6,800 workers and about 40 per cent of sales are derived from the US and Europe.
       "Imagine starting 30 years ago with a sewing machine and now turning out maybe 5 milliuon suits or something like that a year," Buffett says in the video.
       "It's a story that should inspire people in China and inspire people around the world."
       The company has 20 stores in 11 cities in China, according to its website.
       Ait is 250-square metre store in Beijing's Finance Street Shopping Centre, tailored suits range from 6,800 yuan at the cheapest to 21,000 yuan when made with Loro Piana cloth, said a saleswoman in the shop. Off-the-peg outfits cost about 8,000 yuan.
       Visitors the shop, which features plush armchairs, can order an entire wardrobe from suits to shirts, belts, leather accessories, shoes, ties and cufflinks. Customers buying suits at the top end of the price range may be looked after by Ivano Cattarin, who left Giorgio Armani to become Dayang's chief designer, the sales-woman said, declining to give her name.
       Chinese President Hu Jintao wore a Dayang suit when he met former US president George W Bush at the Asia-Pacific Economic Forum in 2007, according to a bound volume in the store's waiting area.

Flowers, slightly trampled, but not undaunted

       Designers at New York Fashion Week had a new tactic to woo back wary customers: flowers.after two days of rain-drizzled gloom for Mercedes Benz Fashion Week's fourth day. But that doesn't mean everything was roses - the floral patterns looked like flowers after the rain, a little worse for wear.
       Muted arrangements were blurred like they had been caught in a downpour. The sense was one of transition: Spring is coming, but not undaunted.
       Retailers should be satisfied with the pops of colour,something they want to draw customers into stores.Yet the colours aren't so bright they require sunglasses - designers are aware of the gloomy context, too.
       Diane von Furstenberg followed her successful formula of mixing high-fashion concepts with relatable pieces: This spring, the theme is queen of the desert.
       "Diane von Furstenberg can do no wrong," said stylist Mary Alice Stephenson."It's always a perfect mix of what editors want - over the top, gold embellishment - but there's also those little dresses that everyone wants."
       What will there be a clamour for? Perhaps the green macrame dress, or the gold bomber jacket. There's also the tie-waist, draped lavender tiger chiffon dress and her standby wrap dress, this time offered in an orange print.
       The sunset colours, including burnt yellow, orange and purple, as well as greens and blues, are in line with the dominant palette so far this Fashion Week, and the runway had the requisite not-too-perfect florals.

SPRINGING IN FOR 2010

       Marc Jacobs moved fashion towards femininity at New York Fashion Week, even if the other designers who previewed spring collections aren't quite there yet.His show, with Madonna in the front row,didn't take a completely new direction from the emerging look of the season, which was already a little softer than autumn's warrior.Jacobs just pushed the needle a little farther with lots of ruffles, pearls and even bloomers.
       Elsewhere, it's been the bandage look that has been popular - at Herve Leger, of course,where it is the signature item - but also at Carolina Herrera, Alexander Wang, Lela Rose,Nicole Miller and in Victoria Beckham's new collection.
       Slashes and cut-outs came along with the bandages, adding a little sex appeal at Derek Lam, Rachel Roy and Zac Posen, among other runways. The slashes show some skin, but not so much that it couldn't be officeappropriate when placed on a shoulder or back.
       MARC JACOBS
       Marc Jacobs reminded style-watchers why he is called a bellwether with his very feminine clothes, which is probably what other designers will present two seasons from now.
       There were frou-frou ruffles and pearl embellishment, yet his muse was still a woman with an edge. Think of his customer as the cool, creative type who can find the best thing in a vintage store, or buy Jacobs' blushcoloured ruffled jersey dress that mimics it.
       Some of his looks went much farther than that - balloon genie pants and pleated bloomers come to mind - but those are for magazine spreads, not the real world. For store racks, he offered wearable jackets that had a hint of military influence and suits that could be the wave of the future, with a stream of ruffles down the jacket that continued on the skirt or trousers.
       ZAC POSEN
       Zac Posen did things differently. He switched from a night-time blowout show to a tranquil morning one, a big venue to a small one and - most importantly - he presented clothes you might see someone wearing.
       Posen had increasingly focused on dramatic, over-the-top clothes. Remember the whole Midwestern storm theme a few seasons back? Great looks if you happen to be an edgy multi-platinum rocker.
       His 2010 spring collection was a complete switching of gears, with adorable, see-through,candy-coloured raincoats setting the tone of an upbeat, youthful collection.
       Posen hit on the floral trend with a gladiolaprint gown with an open back, and a series of finale gowns with sequin flower appliques.He also used the trick of using cut-outs to create sexy silhouettes without showing too much skin.
       DONNAKARAN
       Nothing has moved on the Fashion Week runway quite the way Donna Karan's spring collection did.
       The silhouettes were slim, with Karan touting "body skirts" and "body dresses" that fit like second skins, but the light viscose jersey,linen and silk fabrics allowed them a vibe of easy elegance - and wearability. Colours included sky blue, a barely there blush and a lot of neutral skin tones.
       If there aren't enough places to wear her jersey wrap dresses - especially the blushcoloured, off-shoulder number that was a little reminiscent of old-school Halston there were everyday clothes, too. A wrapstyle skirt suit, for example, is something we should see more of.
       CAROLINA HERRERA
       Carolina Herrera showed transporting clothes with exotic rope and raffia details.
       There were many textured fabrics, offered in a natural colour palette that ranged from redwood brown to light stone.
       The occasional use of amber, rose and caramel were made to match the "waning light cast at the end of a summer's day",Herrera said in her notes.
       Her inspiration was baskets, she explained.That translated well into a strapless gown with a woven bodice and a quartz-coloured dress that looks like a checkerboard of organza.
       THAKOON PANICHGUL
       Thakoon Panichgul's spring styles rode the same ocean-inspired wave as quite a few other collections presented so far, although his take on things certainly had more attitude.
       His colours were mostly blues and greens,with a few flashes of pink and scuba-inspired silhouettes. What set him apart were mashups of prints and often edgy mixes of styles on a single garment.
       First lady Michelle Obama has worn the Thakoon label on many occasions, but it would be hard to imagine her wearing many things from this spring line.
       The cool fashion types in the audience?That's a different story.

When nature calls!

       A meeting at any given fashion magazine to decide upon the trendiest must-haves of the moment.]Editor:Alright writers, in June we had 10 Best Hairstyles to Suit Your Face .In July it was Nine Hairstyles to Flatter Your Visage... Plus One More . And of course, we saved the best until August with You Don't Have to Hate Your Face With These 10 Hairstyles .Minion:We're still so creative after all these years!The Only Sane Person in the Room:Aren't those the same stories? I feel like I'm taking yaa that makes me baa !Minion:Gawwwd , you don't appreciate fashion. So we're going to knock the split ends off our readers with hairstyles for September?Editor:Well, that's what they would expect [evil smirk]. But let's give the fashion industry a trend they've never seen before! It's so maniacal, I'm scared to even say it! I'll give you a clue - animal print!The Only Sane Person in the Room:It's not a clue if you just told us what it is. And animal print has been in style since the 1980s.Editor:Like anybody remembers what happened in the 80s! Animal print is the trend of the moment, and you will write about it. Or I'll get a top-notch designer to carefully duplicate your skin's silky smooth texture and use that print on clothes and accessories.The Only Sane Person in the Room:Err, that actually sounds more like a compliment than a threat.Minion:Ooh, I can't wait to start writing this piece! It'll be so fun! I already have the opening sentence -"Animal print fashion is so in style right now."[End of meeting.]
       Animal print fashion is so in style right now. Blasted #@!!!$%!!. The tyrannical trend totalitarian trumps again. But there's no one we can blame for the longevity of animal print in the fashion world but ourselves.Unless someone can prove that leopards, cheetahs and zebras secretly control every move made by designers and consumers (note to self: create Wikipedia page dedicated to this blatant fallacy).
       While Sheikh Hot Kotture is actually a fan of animal print for both daring women and flamboyant daring men, it doesn't excuse the fact that no other pattern has enjoyed as much time in the fashion limelight.Perhaps we should blame the media? Oh, right,we are the media , I forgot!In that case, treat your other printed items like an unwanted child.Devote your love to animal patterns this season. The unanimous favourite,leopard print, is still alive and strong, but don't dismiss the funkiness of tiger, zebra, crocodile, snakeskin, and even cow designs - in the faux variety of course.
       It's easier to speculate whether there will be a coup when our beloved PM goes to New York from September 21-27 (stay tuned!), than it is to conjecture why in the world so many people can still get animal print wrong, since it's been in fashion forever.
       But maybe animal print keeps coming back to give people another chance to learn how to wear it correctly if they didn't get it right the first time. The most important thing isn't to transform your entire wardrobe into a melange of the African savannah, but to infuse animal prints based on your current style.
       If you're a conservative dresser, wear animal print accessories such as headbands, shoes, and purses. If you're a bit wilder, you can get away with an entire animal print shirt, blazer, dress or skirt. But one at a time, please. Sticking to traditional colours such as brown,black and white is the safest choice, while animal prints paired with neon hues will immediately take you from classy to trashy.
       Sheikh Hot Kotture would also advise women to avoid wearing animal printed corsets, mini dresses, or any clothing that could be deemed "too sexy". Animal print is already sexy in itself, and if you're wearing a tight, cleavage-baring dress with a high split up the side,other women might mistake you for being an insecure, attentionseeking coquette.
       It is true that animal print will make you stand out, and if you exercise caution you will definitely draw attention in a good way and look way hotter than your friends. And now it's easier than ever to do that because when something comes back "in fashion" you can get it cheap.
       Although animal print has been around for ages, you'll still be able to find traditional colour schemes, accessories with wild styles, and the occasional print that utilises shades not found in nature.
       So no more ravaging high-end stores paying ridiculous sums for a pattern that designers didn't even come up with themselves.However, props to the person who initially sat down with a leopard and traced his spots. Your bravery has ensured that the fashion industry will always have "animal print" as a fallback when they draw a piece of paper out of a hat to decide upon the next "trend".

FASHION SHOPS PLANNED FOR SKYTRAIN

       ICC International, the trading and manufacturing arm of Saha Group, is interested in opening permanent shops for branded fashion products at Skytrain stations.
       "Similar to the Japanese, Bangkokians today have a rushed lifestyle and always require greater convenience," executive director Nonglak Techabunanek said yesterday.
       It would be the first time for ICC to tap the new sales channel of mass rapid transit, which carries heavy traffic of potential shoppers. The Skytrain retail outlets would cater very well to their changing urban lifestyle, she said.
       About 80-90 per cent of the company's sales are from department stores, and 10 per cent from other modern retail channels such as hypermarkets.
       The company also started a TV-shopping channel at the beginning of this year, but the sales contribution is still small.
       Community centres are another potential retail channel of interest to the company.
       "Our sales in the first eight months are flat compared to the same period last year. We also expect our full-year sales to be flat or enjoy slight growth to about Bt10.05 billion this year," she said.
       Surapong Laoha-unya, director and chief operating officer of Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS), the operator of the Skytrain, said the transit system now attracts 400,000-500,000 passengers a day on average, which is up from about 380,000 last year.
       "Our passengers have increased significantly by 5-7 per cent year on year in the first eight months of this year. We expect our sales to reach nearly Bt4 billion this year, of which over 90 per cent will be from passenger tickets and the rest from the lease of retail and advertising space to vendors," he said.
       ICC International, in cooperation with BTS and VGI Global Media, will organise the "ICC Sky Shopping Rally" at three major stations - Siam, National Stadium and Ploenchit - from September 28-October 4.
       All major fashion brands manufactured and distributed by ICC - including BSC, Wacoal, Arrow, Guy Laroche, Getaway, Elle, Naturalizer, Speedo, Absorba and Enfant - will be available at the stations for the first time at a huge discount of 30-60 per cent.
       Marut Arthakaivalvatee, CEO of VGI Global Media (Thailand), said the company had been appointed by BTS to manage the marketing, shop areas and advertisements at its stations.
       Specialising in transit and in-store media, VGI Global Media expects its overall sales to grow 15-20 per cent this year to about Bt1.2 billion.
       "Our direction is to focus on our specialised format of digital-based semi-outdoor media," he said.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

INDUSTRIES READY TO STAND IN DEFENCE AGAINST UP CHARGES

       Three Thai industries-shrimp, garment and sugar-may face difficulties in exports to the US next year due to accusations of hiring child and migrant labour.
       Kessiri Siripakorn, minister (commercial) for the Office of Commercial Affairs in Washington DC, said the US Labour Department had issued an announcement against the industries.
       "Thai industries will have 90 days, until the middle of December, to clarify about the accusations. If they may be subjected to trade barriers," said Kessiri.
       She called for the government and related industries to discuss the matter and present clear evidence to defend their industries.
       Kessiri warned that under the Barack Obama administration, all industries must be aware of new non-tariff barriers,particularly ones focusing on labour and environment.
       Thai manufacturers would face greater difficulties in exporting if they do not promptly deal with rising non-tariff barriers, she said.
       Poj Aramwattananont, president of Thai Frozen Foods Association, said the US government report was untrue and the association had already presented evidence to the US Embassy in Bangkok.
       The association will also present evidence regarding the matter to Washington as the association has frequently worked in cooperation with Immigration Custom Enforcement for inspecting all factories and their suppliers to ensure they have not hired any child or migrant labour in the industry.
       So far, more than 1,000 factories have been investigated. The industry employs more than a million people. We are confident no child or migrant labour was hired in our industry, Poj said.
       To ensure that the shrimp and other industries will not face any obstacles resulting from the report, the association will soon meet the Foreign Ministry and related Thai government agencies to clarify the issue to the US government.
       Wallop Vitanakorn, secretarygeneral of the Thai Garment Manufacturers Association, said the US report must have been the result of a misunderstanding.
       He said most garment exporters to the US must normally comply with high standards required by their importers, including labour issues.
       Export of garments to the US must follow a "code of conduct" which specifies that no migrant labour of child labour must be hired in the industry. Moreover, under the agreement between Thai garment manufacturers and American buyers, it states that employers must have a fair contract with labourers, including restricting maximum period of work to 60 hours a week, and set a fair payment and days off, as per the law.
       Wallop said American buyers also regularly send teams to inspect their factories every six months to ensure the producers had followed the code of conduct.
       He said it was impossible for garment exporters to break this tight rule. The association will soon cooperate with the Thai government and collect information to defend against this accusation.

       Under the Barack Obama administration, all industries must be aware of new nontariff barriers, particularly ones focusing on labour and environment.

Absolutely Versace!

       Elegance still stands as the key for the latest collection of haute couture brand Gianni Versace Autumn/Winter 2009/10,as flaunted in front of celebrities and exclusive clients who attended the fashion show at its Bangkok flagship store at Siam Paragon last week.
       The delicate embroidery between the fabric and materials, such as metal threads or Nappa leather, formed the flamboyant and unique womenswear. Receiving the most attention was the unique, lacquered-fabric minidress presented by former Miss Universe 2005 Natalie Glebova, as she strided, the dress appeared to shine as if it was decorated with ceramics.
       Inspired by The White Painting , an art piece from the late Robert Rauschenberg, from blazers to shawl collars, this season of Gianni
       Versace menswear was dominated with light grey and gunmetal grey colours, reminiscent of a cold and cloudy winter.
       The 20-minute fashion show was lit up with the upbeat sound of the latest music by the androgenic artist, Prince, who has given Versace designer Donatella Versace his permission to feature three of his new tunes for every runway show of this collection worldwide.

Tommy Hilfiger chief exec restaging brand

       Tommy Hilfiger Corp has spent the last few years trying to undo the damage from its apparel brand going too mainstream, and is now presenting a "preppy" and "iconic American" brand.
       Less than 48 hours after opening a flagship Tommy Hilfiger store on Manhattan's Fifth Avenue, chief executive Fred Gehring told Reuters on Tuesday that establishing such a high-profile presence would have long-term benefits that outlast the immediate challenges of the weak economy.
       "Even if there's a double-dip, eventually there will be a recovery to something that will be the new normal. But in any scenario, New York City will be a key spot," said Gehring, who hails from the Netherlands and became CEO in 2006 following the brand's acquisition by Apax Partners, a London-based private equity firm.
       In its first days, Gehring said the new store - which sells everything from $29 T-shirts to suits costing more than $1,000 - is seeing a good response in all categories, especially the pieces from its higher-end collections.
       Still, the company is expanding at a more rapid pace abroad than in the United States, where it suffered years of sales declines after its logo-heavy designs and affordable prices made it a staple of urban streetwear but alienated many of its preppier customers.
       "After opening about 100 stores during the past year, the company has about 950 stores globally," Gehring said.
       He has adjusted the pace of expansion due to the economy, and now sees opening only 50 to 60 stores in the next year,with about a dozen of those in the United States.
       Last year Apax shelved plans to float the company on the Amsterdam stock exchange due to volatile market conditions. Nearly two years later, Gehring said an initial public offering remains the most likely exit scenario for the funds,which acquired Tommy Hilfiger for $1.6 billion.
       "I think the most likely scenario will be an IPO but it may well be that it's going to be two years away or so," Gehring said."When the market starts to stabilise and open up, I don't think we're going to be rushing out as one of the first ones."
       He said selling to a strategic buyer was not out of the question, but unlikely,given Tommy Hilfiger's size. He also said he was not aware of any discussions between potential suitors and the brand's owners, whom he described as very comfortable with their investment and not pressuring to discuss their exit.
       "It's very clearly not, at the moment,on the radar."

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Scottish clothing manufacturer caught in Lockerbie bomber row

       A manufacturer of Harris Tweed has dropped the word "Scottish" from its US marketing campaign amid fears of a consumer backlash over the release of the Lockerbie bomber, a report said yesterday.
       Harris Tweed Hebrides said it had rethough its campaign ahead of the launch of its fashion collection in New York next month after the release of Abdelbaset Ali Mohmet al-Megrahi by the Scottish government, which sparked fury in the US.
       "We are not going to promote ourselves as a Scottish company as we would previously have done," said Mark Hogarth, the company's creative director.
       "From everyone we spoke to in the US, the feeling came back that a serious mistake had been made in releasing Megrahi."
       "We have been getting a lot of feedback and we have had to de-Scottishfy the image of the brand. If he had not been relased we would not have altered anything," he said.
       Harris Tweed is specially handwoven wool by communites on islands off Scotland, a proud industry that dates back to the 1800s.
       Harris Tweed Hebrides supplies the fabric to more than 30 countries.
       The Daily Telegraph newspaper said other manufacturers have also expressed concern about a possible boycott of Scottish goods, including Walkers Shortbread.
       Megrahi, the only man convicted over the 1988 plane bombing, was released from prison in August on compassionate grounds because he is suffering terminal cancer.
       The Scottish government's decision and the hero's welcome Megrahi received when he returned to Libya sparked anger from the US administration and the American relatives of victims of the atrocity.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Tiger on the prowl

       A pioneer in sporty footweear, Onitsuka Tiger is once again lighting up Bangkok's streets with its newest collection of smart sneakers featuring the classic stripe designs and a range of other fashion accessories guaranteed to please the new streetwise generation.
       The label was established back in 1949 by creative designer Kihachiro Onitsuka who came up with a selection of quirky basketball shoes as a way of comforting fellow Japanese in the years following World War II.
       Kihachiro's sneakers, designed to look like a tiger's head, were made with a special technique that was good for the health of the feet. His shoes really took off in the 1960s when Onitsuka Tiger became the favourite brand for athetes around the world.
       In 1977, Kihachiro set up a new company and produced a new range of canvas shoes under the Asics umbrella with the slogan "a sound mind in a sound body". Soon his shoes were sellign like hot cakes and the brand expanded to include major markets in America and Europe.
       Reincarnated in 2001, Asics Corporation of America decided to launch new sneakers and other fashion accessories under the Onitsuka Tiger label. Just like in the old days, the designs are simple, smart and stripy but come in livelier coulours such as are vivid green, red, yoellow and blue. For those who prefer calmer shades, there's also cream, white and black.
       Other grear includes t-shirts, handbags and jackets and you'll find it all at Central Chitlom Deparment Store. Call (02) 793 7900.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Polo goes after users of iPhone

       Polo Ralph Lauren Corp,the fashion company behind the Polo and Club Monaco brands, said on Thursday its smaller Rugby brand was launching an iPhone application that lets users design their own shirts.
       Rugby is a collegiate-inspired brand that targets young adults and has a dozen stores in the United States.
       The action comes as brands ranging from computer maker Dell Inc to Starbucks Corp use networking sites to boost sales and communicate directly with the public.
       Rugby's application, available this week for Apple Inc iPhone and iPod touch devices, allows consumers to customise 19 products, including sweaters,shirts, and sweatshirts. And they can download photos of themselves in their creations.
       David Lauren, senior vice president of advertising, marketing and corporate communications and Ralph Lauren's son,said the action reflects what the company calls "merchantainment", a blend of merchandising and entertainment.
       "That has been very compelling for the customer, but really a natural evolution of what we've already done for 40 years," Lauren said.
       Wendy Liebmann, chief executive of consulting firm WSL Strategic Retail, said Polo Ralph Lauren's experimentation with technology has helped it evolve and expand its reach.
       "I think that's kept that brand, which is still pretty traditional in its design aesthetic, very relevant and kept new people coming in to it," Liebmann said.
       Polo, which already launched iPhone applications giving users a taste of its Ralph Lauren Collection runway shows,is not alone. Designer Norma Kamali is launching an iPhone application to coincide with her Spring 2010 runway show,taking place on Sept 17 at a Manhattan Apple store. Kamali's application will let users buy clothing via their phones.
       Lauren said consumers can get an online peek at its Ralph Lauren Spring 2010 show, after the show which is scheduled for next week.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Fashion aristocracy

       More than just a centuries-old horse race, the Palio of Siena is a famous festival with colourful parades and lively celeEmilio Pucci rolled out a collection inspired by the Palio and the
       spectacular graphics of its 16th-century banners. Half a century
       later, Palio prints make a comeback on the Italian brand's FallWinter 2009 catwalk.
       Crowned as the Prince of Prints, the aristocratic designer became a fashion phenomenon in the 1950s when he began developing his signature prints in graphic and abstract designs,which swirled in a kaleidoscope of colour. Emilio Pucci also
       pioneered stretch fabrics to liberate women from corsets and
       rigid structured clothing.
       The Palio collection, as one of such noble heritage, becomes a foundation for the new designs by artistic director Peter Dundas.
       This season, the rebellious aristocratic Pucci girl throws on tunics and trousers, cashmere T-shirts and aged deerskin pants under a luscious fox fur thrown casually over her shoulders. She also dons fur-lined biker blousons or oversized silk smoking jackets in bold Palio prints, accessorised with chain-edged shoulder bags in distressed denim or matte python.
       Trousers pays tribute to the Capri pant, a staple of Pucci collections.After beginning his fashion career by creating streamlined skioutfits, Emilio Pucci opened a boutique in Capri notable for colourful resort clothing, including tight Capri pants. The new versions come in faded printed cotton canvas or as slinky cargo trousers in military green or as embroidered suede pants with horse motifs in scarabcoloured gems. Shorts in leather and cotton canvas also refer to the Palio silhouettes.
       Mini-dresses in prints that seem washed and faded to recall iconic pieces of the past are worn with slouchy suede pirate boots for daytime chic. Evening dresses feature patchworks and cut-outs of Pucci-patterned guipure lace and beading that reinterpret the graphic motifs and delicately play on the lines of the body.
       Over black, bottle green and aubergine dresses, barbarian coats of mohair-patched fur, leather and gold braiding keeps the Pucci chic and warm.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Lacoste for Ramathibodi

       Buy an "I Love Lacoste limited edition"T-shirt and you will be doing your part for charity.Lacoste, a product distributed by ICC International Pcl, has been involved in charity projects since its first event in 2003, when it auctioned off Lacoste polo shirts decorated by guest artists.
       This was followed by the hugely popular Lacoste Polo Limited Edition with silver crocodile, polo shirts on the occasion of the 70th anniversary with the replica of the first Lacoste crocodile, and colourful Lacoste ponchos from France. Sales generated from all three campaigns contributed to the Cardiac Children's Foundation Under the Royal Patronage of HRH the late Princess Galyani Vadhana.
       There was an auction of Lacoste shoes for the Wheelchair Tennis Club of Thailand. Moreover, Lacoste gave a donation to the Ramathibodi Foundation for bone-marrow collecting equipment.
       This year, the Ramathibodi Foundation is constructing the new Somdech Phra Debaratana Building to support the increasing number of patients coming to Ramathibodi Hospital.
       The newly designed T-shirt "I Love Lacoste Limited Edition", and the Lacoste "Vintage" collection with a special dyeing process to make the colour of the crocodile logo the same as the shirt itself,come in several colours to choose from.
       Sales generated from these two limited editions will be donated to the Ramathibodi Foundation to help construction of the new building project.

Monday, September 7, 2009

Versace breaks into home furnishings, young trendy gear

       Everest World, local importer and distributor of luxury apparel brand Versace, will launch two new product ranges - Versus and Versace Home - in Thailnad next year.
       The expansion of Versace's portfolio in the Kingdom is in line with the policy of Versace Italy, which recently appointed Gian Giacomo Ferraris as its new CEO, to manage Versace business around the world.
       Vorasom Pagtaranigon, brand manager of Everest World, said the new CEo was taking responsibility for significant changes at Versace, which was now striving to become a leading designer and producer of furniture and lifestyle products.
       The company wants to focus on creating clear product protfolios for the Versace brand, consisting of four major products. They are the Versace Collection, the brand for men's spparel and business uniforms; Versace Mainline, the brand for men's and women's casual, business and party apparel; Versua, a brand for young and trendy apparel; and Versace Home, a brand for home furnishing products and porcelains.
       Everest World is the exclusive importer and distributor of Versace's brands in Thailand.
       Vorasom said the Versace Collection and Versus would be launched locally at prices 15-25-per-cent cheaper than Versace Mainline products.
       "Next year, we'll redecorate our Versace flaship store in Siam Paragom and add the new Versace Home collections. We'll also open the first of our Versus 'shop in shop' outlets at Central Chidlom. Versus will be the first Versace brand with a retail outlet in a department store. We'll also open the Versace Collection at Central Chidlom next year," she said.
       Vorasom said her company planned to open flaship stores for both Versus and Versace Home products in the near future.
       "We [Everest World] will comply with the business strategies of Versace Italy, which are aimed at achieving a big return from the Versace brand all over the world. Market penetration from next year will be more perfect, with a supporting plan from Versace Italy," she said.
       The local launch of Versace's new brands will also extend the company's new-customer base.
       "Our 2010 business plan includes a marketing budget equal to 12 per cent of sales, to remind customers of the Versace brand through ad campaigns and continuous imports of new products," Vorasom said.
       She said Versace's performance in Thailand in the first four months of the year was unsatisfactory, because of political and global economic problems.
       Hoever, the company posted double-digit growth in the second four-month period and is expecting that growth to continue, with full-year sales reaching Bt80 million to Bt100 million.
       With good signs of economic recovery, the company has seen a greater number of shoppers buying Versace, both locals and tourists, Vosasom said.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

THAI TEXTILES OF OLD AND NEW

       The elegant interior of the Support Foundation shop at Hor Ratsadakorn Pipat Hall within the grounds of the Grand Palace had never seen so many beautiful shoppers at one time. But that was to be expected for the opening of the "Charm of Thai Textiles" exhibition. The exhibition brought together 30 leading Thai designers, including Kai, Tirapan, Pisit, Gina, Metta, Soda,Theatre, Fly Now, Asava, Greyhound, Issue, Senada Theory, Disaya, AB Normal, Chai, Vatit Itthi and Vick Teerut, who lent their talent to create 30 stunning ensembles from textiles, both cotton and silk, from the Support Foundation.
       Presiding at the opening of the exhibition was Thanpuying Jarungjit Teekara, HM the Queen's Deputy Private Secretary.
       The Support Foundation was established in 1976 by HM the Queen in order to help poor villagers in remote areas earn a supplementary income to their seasonal farming efforts, as well as to preserve the local art that was part of the traditional lifestyle for future generations. It also tied in with HM the King's philosophy of self-sufficiency.
       The Support Foundation shop provides an outlet for handicraft products made by Support members.
       This particular branch of the Support Foundation shop forms part of a complex that will soon house a museum gallery on Thai textiles from past to present.
       This shop also presents a unique line of products that incorporates modern design concepts under the guidance of Ploenchan Runprapan.There are two lines -"Classic Traditional" and "New Design".
       The latest collection,"Majestic Motive", draws its inspiration from the ceramic tiles that are used to decorate chapels, walls, stupas, bell towers and demons that stand guard within the Temple of the Emerald
       Buddha. These patterns - with such evocative Thai names as Lai Dok Prajam Yarm, Lai Takai, Lai Phum Khao Bin, Lai Krajang Ta Oy, Lai Krajang Patiyan, Lai Kam Pu and Lai Kaew Ching Duang - can be traced back to the first reign of the Rattanakosin Period.
       These patterns appear on both silk and cotton, which have been turned into various lifestyle products such as various home decor items,clothes, accessories, bags, stationery and souvenir items.
       After the opening ceremony guests enjoyed a fashion show by some of Thailand's top celebrities, including Tipanan Srifuengfung, Prae Sarasin, Jutawan Krairiksh, Yupapak Vajrabhaya, Piyavara Teekara,Kitivichaya Watcharothai, Unchisa Vacharaphol, Pilomrat Isvarphornchai,Pimpayap Srikarnchana, Chulalux Piyasombatkul, Pitchana Sa-Nguansat,Parama Raiva, Athidthan Noncie, Achiraya Prasutanond and Leila Soontornvinate.
       By the time the last guest trickled out of the shop, the shelves had to be replenished several times, particularly necklaces decorated with fabric flowers, as well as the T-shirts with silk appliques.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Styles for Muslims have promise

       The lucrative Islamic clothing industry is being given a new push since few local operators understand the market environment, said Veerapol Srilert, director of the Bureau of Industrial Sector Development.
       The lack of financial support is also one of the main obstacles to promoting the industry.
       "A fashion show of Islamic clothing designed by fashion students is the only activity this year to promote industry awareness as the bureau faces budget constraints," said Mr Veeraphol.
       The show to exhibit fashionable clothing that conforms to Islamic rules will be held on Oct 12 at the Zen Event Gallery at CentralWorld. Up to 48 costumes for various functions designed by students of Kasem Bundit University,Srinakharinwirot University and Chanapatana International Design Institute will be on display.
       Realising local garment operators' potential to serve this much-overlooked market, Mr Veerapol said the value could also be added to other industries such as fabric and accessories.
       The bureau is hopeful of implementing more activities next year to promote the industry."With our 7-million-baht budget allocated for next year, the bureau is planning programmes to encourage and help local garment operators serving other export markets to tap into the Islamic clothing market."
       It will also build a network of Islamic clothing producers, as well as a designer network, as the basis to solidify the segment's establishment. The bureau plans to also finance research to establish fashion preferences and build a bodystructure database to help local producers better serve each distinctive market.
       Boon-arak Raksawong, a Srinakarinwirot University fashion design lecturer,said his experience in global trade shows allowed him to learn the likes of Arabic customers, who have high purchasing power in the Islamic clothing market.
       "They like fashion, especially the semicouture style where small embroidery work is applied to everyday wear. The style is very popular and Thailand has the strength [to produce it]," said Mr Boon-arak.
       "Most producers tend to overlook this market because they misunderstand Islamic clothing restrictions. But the market is well worth studying and trying."
       Mr Boon-arak suggested that government support plays an important role in helping producers reach this market.To date, the assistance has been limited,inconsistent and poorly managed.
       "If the government really wants to promote the Islamic clothing industry,a lot more work and budget are needed and they have to be organised more professionally," he said.