Still looking great,Elle

       The Thai fashion industry's forced diet has had healthy results judging from the just-completed 11th Elle Fashion Week, during which 13 leading brands and one contender showed terrific autumn-winter collections that looked quite cosy despite the economic chill.
       There were no press conferences, no billowing event tents - and no big-name sponsors. Elle magazine's Thai edition saved up every single baht on its own for this year's Bt10-million catwalk festival, and it was just as world-class as ever.
       "We're suffering", winced Elle ditor Kullawit Laosuksri, who saw several designers drop out at the last minute and had to scramble to replace perennial backers like Nokia and L'Oreal with new investors.
       They did well in the end, with Mercedes-Benz, Samsung, PM Centre and Laurier chipping in.
       The mini-week - October 15 to 18 - brought solid signs of professionalism to the area in front of Central World, even if there were no government funds forthcoming from the "Creative Economy" campaign. Only the "Designers' Room" show for emerging talents had state support, from the Commerce Ministry's Department of Export Promotion.
       Never mind: A lot of the creative clothes-makers were able to spin out fresh notions with a "chic local styles-come-global looks" approach that tapped Thai culture. And classical Thai music resonated on the runway throughout the four days.
       Nothing could beat the extravagant production with which Somechai Kaewtong of Kai celebrated 40 years in the business. His collections sprang from the classic to the avant-garde in a great show produced by Sombat Tirasaroj.
       It opened with bared-shoulder, cream-coloured mini-dresses bearing pop-art portraits of beloved actress Petchara Chaowarat, accompanied by the song "Yard Petch" from her 1965 movie "Ngern Ngern Ngern".
       Showing off his mastery of tailoring, Somchai presented elegant evening dresses draped, twisted, pleated and embroidered, in a remarkable parade of runway stars like Duangta Tungkamanee, Nualprang Treechid, ornanpa Krissadee, Rungnapa Kitiwat, Kara Polasit, Jitiima Wattanasen, Yellie Macintosh, Sinjai Plengpanich and Mai Charoenpura.
       And seven-months-pregnant Cindy Bishop was there too for the finale, wearing a loose, knee-length cream wedding gown.
       Chanachai Jareeyathana of 27 Friday shifted the scene to rustic Isaan in setting and music - with a little ska mixed in - for a selection of charming outfits made from checked pa khao ma and kid-pattered fabrics. For the men there were swim trunks and suits with short pants, and for the ladies, minidresses and maxi evening gowns.
       Chanita Prechavitayakul revisited the 1970s for her brand Senada, celebrating "Reality & Dream in My Mind" with her signature feminine appeal and the great old song "Fon San Fah". The waistlines were anything but low - the models could sit on their waists, pulled well up on the tummy.
       Taned Boonprasan of Olanor did some DJ sleight-of-hand too with the music for a collection inspired by flowers and leaves but set against an urban environment. Looking like patterns of garlands, Taned's silk and chiffon outfits utilised crochet, silkscreen and pleating.
       Veteran Pisit Natarvisad returned to the runway with timeless allure and neat cutting, modifying traditional Thai costumes in the draping. He had cocktail dresses and evening gowns made of sil, satin, chiffon, taffeta and lace.
       Nagara Sambandaraksa made great use of shape and all the colours of a peacock in his winged evening dresses, tunics, pants and even swimwear for men. Feathers from a peacock's neck became hooded blouses for women and jackets for men.
       Disaya Sornkraikittikool of Disaya took viewers into space with her "Celestial Warrior" collection of black, aqua and navy-blue costumes trimmed with sequins and glossy buttons. Rather than her usual pastels, she played with shocking pink and mustard yellow and invaded a galaxy in black ankle-length gladiator boots and leather gloves.
       Pimdao Sukhahut of Sretsis made a triumphant comeback to Elle Fashion Week with the "Metamorphosis" collection already on sale at its boutique and abroad. Think of the modern woman transforming herself from day to night like a caterpillar becoming a butterfly.
       With bull's-eye targets set out for the show, doors burst open at the sound of a gunshot and the models marched out in reversible dresses and jackets. Innovative materials and techniques in draping and frills and digital prints were on display.
       For Asava, Polpat Asavaparpha and Maruwut Buranasilpin heralded the "Wall Street Goddess" in a wonderful show about working women who look sleek in neat draping and lush, vivid hues.
       Vatit Itthi was more mature a year after its debut at Elle, Vatit Virashpanth and Ithi Metanee showing elegant costumes bristling with texture and the whole gamut of folding, twisting and hand drawing.
       Adisak Rojsiripan of Zenithorial paid tribute to fashion photographer Amat Nimitpak on his career silver anniversary, displaying the lensman's acclaimed shots of nude men on T-shirt-dresses and men's tees and trunks.
       Elle Fashion Week colsed with Mollika Ruangkritya's Kloset Red Carpet, employing a subway platform as the backdrop. The models held newspapers and cups of coffee, or strolled about clutching shopping bags, and Tangram, the vintage board game, inspired the silhouettes and cutting.