Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Morgan eyes China, HK

       Morgan De Toi (Thailand) will export its lingerie to China and Hong Kong next year and import a new French brand to tap the mass market in Thailand.
       The company produces and distributes lingerie and leather bags, and imports women's clothing for sale in Thailand.
       It was set up by Morgan, a French apparel-maker, and Saha Group, Thailand's largest and most diverse textile and garment manufacturer.
       China is expected to become the largest market for lingerie, Morgan director Marin Leelanuwatana said yesterday.
       The domestic market generates 70 per cent of Morgan's lingerie sales and exports 30 per cent, but if the company succeeds in the China market, that ratio will be reversed, she said.
       Lingerie contributes 60 per cent of the company's total sales, follow by women's apparel at 20 per cent and leather bags at 20 per cent.
       Morgan now expects its sales to increase 11 per cent to Bt170 million this year. It had targeted sales growth at 15 per cent but the economic crisis has throttled its exports.
       "Exports witnessed a drop of 20 per cent this year, especially to Taiwan and South Korea, because both countries rely on the US economy. Even if the global economy recovers, the export situation will not improve like the domestic market, which started to pick up in the third quarter. That helps the company to see some sales growth," she said.
       The company forecasts no progress in the export situation next year, so it will have to depend on the domestic market.
       Morgan's projection of sales growth of 15 per cent next year does not include China because the company has to wait and see the results of its attempt at market penetration there.
       The company will also start selling leather bags in the Asian market after achieving its sales goals in Thailand.
       "We have adjusted the price structure for bags to match our competitors. Our price was higher than theirs but when we reduced prices by 10 per cent, sales shot up 54 per cent, from 10-per-cent growth in previous years," she said.
       The company will launch Cache Cache, a French apparel brand from its parent Morgan that is produced in China, for the mass market in Thailand.
       The latest brand is priced lower than local brands, as in the company's experience, consumers are more cautious with their spending and will purchase those products that represent value for their money.
       The company is also considering cutting women's apparel prices by 20 per cent after the Asean Free Trade Agreement (Afta) ends duties on imports and exports among Asean countries. The company now pays 30 per cent on imports of women's clothing.
       However, Afta will also open the market to many Asean lingerie brands. Morgan has to quickly build brand awareness for its products especially lingerie because consumers are less familiar with Morgan's lingerie than its women's apparel.

Still looking great,Elle

       The Thai fashion industry's forced diet has had healthy results judging from the just-completed 11th Elle Fashion Week, during which 13 leading brands and one contender showed terrific autumn-winter collections that looked quite cosy despite the economic chill.
       There were no press conferences, no billowing event tents - and no big-name sponsors. Elle magazine's Thai edition saved up every single baht on its own for this year's Bt10-million catwalk festival, and it was just as world-class as ever.
       "We're suffering", winced Elle ditor Kullawit Laosuksri, who saw several designers drop out at the last minute and had to scramble to replace perennial backers like Nokia and L'Oreal with new investors.
       They did well in the end, with Mercedes-Benz, Samsung, PM Centre and Laurier chipping in.
       The mini-week - October 15 to 18 - brought solid signs of professionalism to the area in front of Central World, even if there were no government funds forthcoming from the "Creative Economy" campaign. Only the "Designers' Room" show for emerging talents had state support, from the Commerce Ministry's Department of Export Promotion.
       Never mind: A lot of the creative clothes-makers were able to spin out fresh notions with a "chic local styles-come-global looks" approach that tapped Thai culture. And classical Thai music resonated on the runway throughout the four days.
       Nothing could beat the extravagant production with which Somechai Kaewtong of Kai celebrated 40 years in the business. His collections sprang from the classic to the avant-garde in a great show produced by Sombat Tirasaroj.
       It opened with bared-shoulder, cream-coloured mini-dresses bearing pop-art portraits of beloved actress Petchara Chaowarat, accompanied by the song "Yard Petch" from her 1965 movie "Ngern Ngern Ngern".
       Showing off his mastery of tailoring, Somchai presented elegant evening dresses draped, twisted, pleated and embroidered, in a remarkable parade of runway stars like Duangta Tungkamanee, Nualprang Treechid, ornanpa Krissadee, Rungnapa Kitiwat, Kara Polasit, Jitiima Wattanasen, Yellie Macintosh, Sinjai Plengpanich and Mai Charoenpura.
       And seven-months-pregnant Cindy Bishop was there too for the finale, wearing a loose, knee-length cream wedding gown.
       Chanachai Jareeyathana of 27 Friday shifted the scene to rustic Isaan in setting and music - with a little ska mixed in - for a selection of charming outfits made from checked pa khao ma and kid-pattered fabrics. For the men there were swim trunks and suits with short pants, and for the ladies, minidresses and maxi evening gowns.
       Chanita Prechavitayakul revisited the 1970s for her brand Senada, celebrating "Reality & Dream in My Mind" with her signature feminine appeal and the great old song "Fon San Fah". The waistlines were anything but low - the models could sit on their waists, pulled well up on the tummy.
       Taned Boonprasan of Olanor did some DJ sleight-of-hand too with the music for a collection inspired by flowers and leaves but set against an urban environment. Looking like patterns of garlands, Taned's silk and chiffon outfits utilised crochet, silkscreen and pleating.
       Veteran Pisit Natarvisad returned to the runway with timeless allure and neat cutting, modifying traditional Thai costumes in the draping. He had cocktail dresses and evening gowns made of sil, satin, chiffon, taffeta and lace.
       Nagara Sambandaraksa made great use of shape and all the colours of a peacock in his winged evening dresses, tunics, pants and even swimwear for men. Feathers from a peacock's neck became hooded blouses for women and jackets for men.
       Disaya Sornkraikittikool of Disaya took viewers into space with her "Celestial Warrior" collection of black, aqua and navy-blue costumes trimmed with sequins and glossy buttons. Rather than her usual pastels, she played with shocking pink and mustard yellow and invaded a galaxy in black ankle-length gladiator boots and leather gloves.
       Pimdao Sukhahut of Sretsis made a triumphant comeback to Elle Fashion Week with the "Metamorphosis" collection already on sale at its boutique and abroad. Think of the modern woman transforming herself from day to night like a caterpillar becoming a butterfly.
       With bull's-eye targets set out for the show, doors burst open at the sound of a gunshot and the models marched out in reversible dresses and jackets. Innovative materials and techniques in draping and frills and digital prints were on display.
       For Asava, Polpat Asavaparpha and Maruwut Buranasilpin heralded the "Wall Street Goddess" in a wonderful show about working women who look sleek in neat draping and lush, vivid hues.
       Vatit Itthi was more mature a year after its debut at Elle, Vatit Virashpanth and Ithi Metanee showing elegant costumes bristling with texture and the whole gamut of folding, twisting and hand drawing.
       Adisak Rojsiripan of Zenithorial paid tribute to fashion photographer Amat Nimitpak on his career silver anniversary, displaying the lensman's acclaimed shots of nude men on T-shirt-dresses and men's tees and trunks.
       Elle Fashion Week colsed with Mollika Ruangkritya's Kloset Red Carpet, employing a subway platform as the backdrop. The models held newspapers and cups of coffee, or strolled about clutching shopping bags, and Tangram, the vintage board game, inspired the silhouettes and cutting.

Silk retailer promotes proud tradition

       Chatchai Puliwakin was 27 years old when he first came to Khon Kaen 30 years ago to work as purchasing manager for Thai Silk company, the producer of Jim Thompson silk products.
       From the same shop-house he began work at, the first of 30 Jim Thompson branches to be built over the years, Chatchai recalls how great changes have come to this Northeastern city.
       "Khon Kaen has expanded so much and there are now daily traffic jams, unheared of a few years ago," he says.
       "But for the silk business, we have seen a gradual drop in production. It is worrying that less Northeastern households are cultivating silkworms."
       The trend is alarming as silk cultivation is core to the Northeast culture, he adds.
       "Young people leave the farms to look for jobs in Bangkok and large cities, leaving the elderly to tend the farms," he says.
       "This has led to a shortfall in local silk crops. During the past few years, we have to rely more from producers abroad."
       To check the decline in production, Jim Thompson has embarked on a number of community schemes such as contract farming to promote silk cultivation.
       "These programmes can help farmers obtain additional income from silkworm cultivation," Chatchai says.
       Khon Kaen remains the main market for the silk trade.
       "Weavers from all over the Kingdom come here to obtain supplies. They come from as far as Surin, considered by many as the top weaving centre for Thai silk."
       In the modest shop-house, Chatchai tends to several merchants who have brought bales of silk to sell.
       Chatchai inspects the goods to verify their grade and makes payment accordingly.
       "What you see today with half a dozen sellers, is a sharp contrast to the long queues we attended to 30 years ago," he recalls.
       The shop was chosen for its location near the main bus terminal, just a few steps away.
       "It was chosen because it was a convenient spot for the traders when they hop off the bus. They can come straight to us without commuting any further, thus saving them time and money," he says.
       The silk company was founded by the legendary Jim Thompson, an OSS agent during World War II. He rose to fame when he disappeared in Malaysia's Cameron Highlands in 1967. His body was never found.
       "I never met Thompson. I joined the company 10 years after he vanished," says Chatchai.
       "But he deeply impressed me with his decisions such as coming to the Northeast."
       Jim Thompson was also one of the first entrepreneurs in Thailand to offer company shares to workers to induce better output and loyalty.
       To this day, many of his original weavers at Ban Krua hold the shares they were given in 1948.
       Chatchai says he also intends to hold on to his shares in the company even after he retires.
       Originally from Bangkok, Chatchai says he now prefers living in the Northeast where people are friendly and the place is still unpolluted.
       "I was born in Thon Buri and I still have a house in Klong Tan," he says. "But I find Bangkok crowded, dirty and noisy."
       "After staying here the past 30 years, it is hard to leave."

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

ELLE FASHION WEEK 2009 AUTUMN/WINTER AT CENTRAL WORLD

       ELLE Fashion Week's final day will be remembered for the variety of designs and styles that define fashion's favourite season.
       RUNWAT TO REALWAY BY CENTRALWORLD AT ELLE FASHION HALL
       The final at ELLE Fashion Week 2009 opens with one of the favourite Br4itish high street chains whose opening in Thailand last year was considered fashion talk of the town, Topshop. The show is a runway version of the Fall/Winter 2009-2010 look book featuring the brand's characteristically 1980s collection of Balmain-marrying-glam rock. Key pieces are biker jacket, tunic jumper worn with leggings, fitted sequined cotton T-shirt, embellished cape, fold-up baggy jeans with strappy top and oversized cardigan-all in the season's dominate palette of black, white, grey, cobalt blue,neon yellow and fuschia.
       DESIGNERS' ROOM: NOW BY DEP
       The absence of Young Designers show this year fortunately does not mean the lack of young blood design aspirants. Thanks to the Department of Export Promotion's Designer's Room project, the government unit sponsors 6 brands in their Now category to stage a show at ELLE Fashion Week. The slot features Wonder Anatomie, Under Dog Fights Back, Innocence, Paul B. Painkiller and Ziff. The overall picutre is that these young rookies are on the process of crafting their own identity, perhaps with an exception of Painkiller who offered a series of menswear outfits with subtle and well-calculated palette while mixing the brand's unique, laid-back chic character with the global fashion trend in moderate proportion. Wonder Anatomie attempts to achieve a luxurious and individual collection with chiffon dresses, patchwork, chains and zipper. Under Dog Fights Back's Siam Square indie kids look would need a but more work to ensure the brand can differentiate itself from the myriad of others with similar style. Innocence serves up collection of excessive drapes in every single piece while Paul B's focus is the ankle-length a la Michael Jackson trousers with stripes and checks. Ziff comes up with a collection fo ruffled peplum skirt suits in dominant beige.
       ZENIHORIAL
       There're times when designer plays homage to a fashion personality in a show directly or indirectly. Alexander McQueen once played tribute to his supermodel friend Kate Moss by projecting her image as the background of a show after the model's cocaine scandal. Now, Zenithorial puts on a show that celebrates top fashion snapper Amat Nimitrpak's 25 years in fashion and you have prints of the photographer's works as the recurrent motifs on several items from tunic, tank to the brand's signature shirt dresses. And talking of shirt dresses, Zenithorial is never Zenithorial without those shirt dress and this time, this signature piece comes in favourite checks and stripes. Interestingly, the brand which hardly plays heed to international fashion's revolving trends happens to embrace a lot of dominant seasonal motifs from padded, pointy shoulders, cowl neck, asymmetrical neckline and skirt length to ruffles and bows.
       ASAVA
       Inspired by the fall of stock markets all over the world, Asava's Wallstreet Goddess collection pays respect to all working women and offers a series of outfits that reflect their change of lifestyle and flexibility. Pencil skirts and dresses continue to be the brand's main staples while the enhanced hip-which comes in draped, tulip-shaped numbers, reflects a more youthful direction. Trousers are mostly in jodhpur style while the tops are a nod to the global fascination with 1980s trend with padded, pointy shoulders and batwings dominating the runway, all in a subdued, wintry palette of black, grey,midnight blue, with an introduction of peach, pale lavender, emerald green and peach to brighten up the collection. Whether or not it's for the fall of the stock markets, Asava girls get a bit raw and edgy with strikingly glam rock details from cut-out and bangdage style and thigh-high boots. Luxurious materials like satin, silk and brocade are key materials while, like Asava's first ELLE Fashion Week collection, leather appears in a few numbers.
       KLOSET RED CARPET
       It's the case of vintage revisited for Kloset Red Carpet's finale show at ELLE Fashion Week. The runway was fashioned with a Metropolitan arch door and models strutted the catwalk in a collection inspired by vintage board game Tangram Puzzles. Strikingly Kloset in terms of form, with vintage dresses in capsuleshaped and A-line skirt as collection staples in a palette of midnight blue, navy, peach and salmon pink. Titled Reminiscence, this colllection turns its back on world trend and is buried in a world of Kloset's own. It's quite refreshing in a way to see a collection without leg-of-mutton sleeves or shoulder pads. Tiered batwing blouses with binding and cape blouses appear in various looks while decorative techniques such as cut-out, embroidery and draping makes the outfits both girlish and sophisticated.
       Geometric prints tone down the feminine feel that has dominated all Kloset collections and we have here some items created from different geometric fabrics sewn together. Acrylic and crystal plates adorn a number of items as well as forming the collection's key accessories, the tiara. The show, as well as, ELLE Fashion Week, was closed with a flapper numger that embraced in one all Klolet's Fall/Winter 2009-10 motifs-the sequined hemline, the tiered sleeves and patchwork of different fabrics. Surely this collection vows to be a hit amongst fans.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Adventurous biker outfits

       The current golden boy of Thai cinema, Ananda Everingham, recently co-designed and modelled for the latest collection of CPS Chaps entitled "My Signature Outfit".
       The star revealed that the collection is an outcome of his creativity and that it mostly relates to his personal style, especially its tone of rock 'n' roll.
       "His passion for motorcycles plays an important role as the inspiration of his designs. So, the concept is based on 'Dirt Biker', which reflects men who are adventurous and often have highly itchy feet to take a journey on a motorbike. The style is quite casual, comfortable and also unintentionally charismatic rather than luxurious," added Chanchira Hongladarom, CPS Chaps's sales and marketing manager.
       For true fans of Ananda, or those who are simply looking for rough and rugged fashion items for their closets,"My Signature Outfit" is now available at CPS Chaps shops nationwide.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Garment-makers seek funding to turn focus on creative economy

       The Thai Garment Manufacturers Association will ask the government for Bt300 million to support its three-year plan with eight activities, to ensure the industry is fully engaged in the creative economy.
       "The association wants to see garment-making breakthroughs from the supply chain through manufacturing," Yotsaton Kujkusol, vice president of the asso iation, told The Nation yesterday.
       "In particular, the creative garment business must cover original equipment manufacturing (OEM), original-bran manufacturing (OBM) and original-design manufacturing (ODM)," he said.
       The objective of the plan is for garment manufacturing to have sufficien creative manpower and be able develop value-added products in cooperation with related industries.
       The plan is also designed to position Thailand as an Asian texile and garment hub, given that the world community presicts that Asia will become the biggest manufacturing region.
       Garment-marking is one of the 15 targeted pilot industries under the government's Creative Economy scheme. Those industries are hoped to become the Kingdom's engine for sustainable economic growth.
       The garment industry has great potential to achieve creativ emanufacturing as it can respond immediately to the plan in terms of recruitment and income generation, he said.
       The plan puts a priority on encouraging people to hae creativity.
       Thailand should initially host an "international creative award" at the regional level,focusing on Asean and Asia.
       Second, a "creative tour" programme should be arranged to support human resources in the private and publice sectors for both creative and related personnel such as those in accounting. The plan will finetune those groups to have the same idea on creation.
       "We should allow them(both creative and related officers) to go on a trip to visit exhibitions and museums abroad to let them exchange ideas on what they see and think of,"Yotsaton said.
       A World Creative Conferendce should be arranged not only to provide more inspiration but also brainstorm ideas and transfer knowledge.
       Thailand should focus on research and development both in raw materials and localwisdom. For instance, natural fibres from plants such as bamboo and bananas should be developed further to differentiate Thai goods.
       The establishment of a creative centre in plants is a must practice to ensure OEM,OBM and ODM development. Experts should be hired to transfer both techniques and knowledge.
       The marketing channel should be directed at creating the right marketplace for the right products.
       New brand creation should be encouraged to gain market access. The association will emphasise a single brand and umbrella brand strategy. The umbrella brand calls for a concept store to foster collaboration with many related products.
       "The concept store will encourage entrepreneurs to export as a group of companies instead of a company,Yotsaton said.
       Thailand should organise activities that boost its image as a creative manufacturer and exporter. All manufacturers should cooperate closely to put together the plan.
       All of those projects should be continuously worked on, while the creative economy should be expanded into educational institutions to encourage people to use more imagination.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER IRVING PENN DIES AT 92

       Influential fashion photographer Irving Penn, known for his elegant, minimalist portraits, died Wednesday. He was 92.
       Penn was long associated with Vogue magazine, where he first began working in the 1940s and won renown for his calm, classical compositions.
       He died at home in New York, said a representative for Pace/MacGill Gallery, which represents Penn's work.
       Although he was most famous for photographs of glamorous models - including a black-and-white, nude Gisele Bundchen - he brought the same graceful simplicity and accuracy to pictures of Peruvian peasants or New Guinea tribesmen.
       "Instead of spontaneity, Mr Penn Provided the illusion of a seance, his gaze precisely describing the profile of a Balenciaga coat or of a Moroccan djellaba in a way that could almost mesmerize the viewer," The New York Times said in an obituary.
       "Nothing escaped the edges of his photographs unless he commanded it."
       His photographs regularly fetch tens of thousands of dollars under the hammer. An auction scheduled at Christie's in New York on Thursday was to feature some 15 prints by Penn.

HERMES ASKS "ANYONE FOR TENNIS?" WHILE KENZO HEADS FOR THE DESERT

       Jean-Paul Gaultier turned the runway into a tennis court on Wednesday for his spring-summer 2010 collection for the luxury brand Hermes as the Paris ready-to-wear week drew to an end.
       Despite their sweatbands, his languid girls did not look as if they intended to even perspire in their elegant cream knife-pleated skirts, which came in all lengths, from short and flippy from a dropped waistline to ankle-brushing maxis fastened like kilts.
       Think Suzanne Lenglen, the graceful French tennis superstar of the 1920s, rather than today's muscular, grunting athletes. Models wore long-line jeackets, with sleeves dangling free, or had stripy cardigans knotted at their waists, and toted streamlined sports bags with racquets poking out.
       Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton also gave a sporty twist to his luxury-ed streetwear with cyclists' shorts in silver lame, micro-mini dresses over leggings cropped at the knee and fringed denim jackets in shades of orange. Tweedy suit jackets with big pockets and others with elasticated waists were paired with military-styled pants.
       His favourite accessory was the backpack, which came adorned with furry animal tails, or was even incorporated into a denim jacket.
       "We decided to do something real and look at the clothes people wear in the street and in urban landscapes, things like army clothes, utilitarian clothes, jeans, parkas and wind breakers," Jacobs says. "And then, of course, we heightened it to a place where it became entertaining for all, which is what fashion is all about."
       For his spring-summer collection, Kenzo's Antonio Marras imagined a trip to the Sahara. Models wafted around airy sarouels, mixing stripes and squares, or in a delicate mosaic print, in browns and blues on brilliant white, all fluttering ties and obi sashes. Military-styled khaki jackets with epaulettes and drawstring hems and trenchcoats with rough rope belts, looked practical for a sandstorm.
       His finale of sarouels and turbans in vibrant shades of turquoise, purple and magenta evoked the traditional costumes of nomadic tribes like the Touaregs.
       At Chloe, British designer Hannah McGibbon imagined today's nomadic woman roaming the world in comfortable trousers, shirt and rustic sandals, keeping out the wind with a cape or poncho.
       Jumpsuits and shorts with big pockets, coats with leather detailing, were staples in her relaxed wardrobe in shades of white, earth and khaki.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Designer Yamamoto goes bankrupt

       Yohji Yamamoto Inc, a fashion house famous for its austere black designer clothes, filed for bankruptcy protection yesterday, a victim of slumping sales as Japanese women turn to cheaper casual outfits during a prolonged economic downturn.
       The company's debts total six billion yen ($67 million), exceeding its assets,but under Japan's corporate rehabilitation law the designer house will continue to operate at home and abroad."Founder and designer Yohji Yamamoto will continue to work," the company said.
       The bankruptcy filing reflects hard economic times in Japan. Normally fashion conscious Japanese women have turned to cheaper casual clothes amid the economic slump. In contrast to strug-gling high-end fashion houses like Yamamoto, demand for low-cost clothes is booming in Japan.
       Along with Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons,Yamamoto shook up the fashion world in the 1980s with his black and white minimalist dresses.
       When Yamamoto first showed his designs in Paris in 1981, he was met with stares of incomprehension. A decade later, they had become a uniform for the fashion community. Yamamoto is also known for his signature draping or simple cutting. The designer has also branched out into couture-style clothes for women and has collaborated with Japanese director Takeshi Kitano, designing costumes for his films.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

NANOTECH TO GIVE THAI SILK IMPROVED QUALITIES

       The project, which envisages giving the fabrics water-repellant, fire-retardant and anti-bacterial qualities, among others, is a collaborative effort between the National Nanotechnology Centre (Nanotec) and the Support Arts and Crafts International Centre of Thailand (Sacict).
       In official terms, it is a pilot project using nanotechnology to support local wisdom by adding value to traditional products. Nanotechnology involves the study and control of matter on an atomic and molecular scale.
       National Nanotechnology Centre director Sirirurg Songsivilai said the project was aimed at adding value to Thai silk and hand-woven cotton fabrics by coating them with nanoparticles to impart new qualities. These include an ability to repel water, retard fire and repel bacteria.
       The project is also cooperating with a private organisation, Thanapaisan, which has developed nanofilaments to achieve the encapsulation of fragrance as well as the anti-bacterial, water-repellent and fire-retardant qualities and combinations of these qualities, he said.
       Nanotec is now using nanoparticle technology to encapsulate fabrics in order to produce cloth with a rose, lemon or lavender fragrance.
       Sirirurg said the project sought not only to create value-added fabrics for the textile industry, but also for the furniture industry.
       There are also plans to develop a nanoresin coating technique to improve Thai silk by giving it "easy care" or "wrinkle-free" qualities.
       "Nanotec hopes to help Sacict to build up a network of support among different industries producing and selling local arts and crafts. It is able to apply new technologies to create techniques initiated by local wisdom for the sustainable development of Thailand," he said.
       Moreover, Nanotec plans to set up a pilot bi-component textile plant next year to explore production processes. The centre believes nanotechnology will not only add value to local products, but enhance the productivity of local communities and lift the quality of their fabrics.
       "We are not seeking to change the way of life for local people, but to use technology to provide and increase their quality of life, since Sacict will be able to expand their customer and market bases," Sirirurg said.
       Nanotec also plans in the near future to use nanotechnology to due fabrics by using natural colours, thereby increasing the special qualities of local fabrics such as cotton and silk.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Sun rising again for Asian firms

       Asian textiles, once considered a fading industry, are now showing strong growth prospects thanks to technology and demand from expanding middle classes, a leading industry player says.
       Known in the past for back-alley shops churning out cheap material, many Asian firms are shedding their sweatshop image as they move to compete in the global market, said Paul Hulme, president of Huntsman Textile Effects (HTE).
       Stricter environmental standards required by Western countries are also prompting consolidation and innovation in the industry, said Hulme, whose firm is one of the world's top suppliers of textile dyes and chemicals.
       It moved its headquarters from Basel,Switzerland to Singapore in March to be closer to its Asian customer base.
       "These sweatshops and poor facilities - that is changing," said Hulme.
       "When I visit our customers, I'm impressed with the facilities in terms of the equipment, in terms of the housekeeping standards and the way they treat their employees," he said.
       "I would not pretend that sweatshops don't exist and I'm sure you can go to parts of India and China where that very much is the case.... But I think that image will change."
       A key driver for the industry's modernisation is Asia's growing middle class,whose clothing tastes are becoming more sophisticated.
       Hulme said the global textile dyes and chemicals market is worth US$16 billion, and Asia accounts for 45% of total consumption, much of it destined for export markets outside the region.
       One year after the global financial crisis exploded, Asian economies are rebounding faster than the West, boosting the textile industry's hopes.
       The Asian Development Bank recently upgraded its forecast for the region's 2009 economic growth to 3.9%. China is forecast to grow 8.2% this year and 8.9%in 2010.
       "Customer taste and demand is changing. For example, as you go into the provinces in China, spending power is increasing," said Hulme.
       "In this business, the future is in Asia.It's going to be driven from Asia, not from Europe and America," he said."You've got to be part of the region."
       China, Bangladesh and India are the world's top textile producers and are also major consumers. Pakistan and Southeast Asia are important and growing players as well.
       HTE is moving to further gain market share after sales totalled $1 billion in 2008.
       The company's patented products give fabrics used in clothing and industrial materials, such as car seats and garden parasols, special properties like sharper,deeper and more lasting colours.
       They can also make clothing resistant to ultra-violet rays and easier to wash,requiring less use of environmentally polluting detergents.
       "We supply the colours and also the special effects," said Rohit Aggarwal,global vice president for apparel and home textiles at HTE."Some are wrinklefree, some are very soft."
       Holding up a China-made T-shirt,Aggarwal said:"This one uses a chemical that allows the fabric to breathe. The sweat doesn't come out, but you still get fresh air going into your body."
       Apart from apparel, a major driver for the industry is demand for "technical textiles" or fabrics used in cars, mattress covers, bags, tents and parachutes,among others, Hulme said.
       Car fabrics that do not fade easily even in extreme heat enhance the vehicle's resale value, and there is rising demand for fire-resistant materials in the construction sector as well, he said.
       In the medical field, chemicals are incorporated in surgeons' gowns to repel blood and dirt, raising the hygiene level.
       HTE spends about 4% of its total annual sales for research and development, according to Hulme.
       Its dye production is carried out in facilities in India, Thailand, China, Switzerland and Mexico. Textile chemicals are produced from factories in Germany and China.
       As Asia's spending power rises,"people want to buy different products and that's going to lead to the development of a whole new market for technical textiles which didn't exist before," said Hulme.
       The market for technical textiles is likely to grow by 20% per year over the next decade, he said, urging Asian firms to ride the growth by moving up to higher value-added products.

HOW HAVAIANAS GOT A STRONG FOOTHOLD

       Havaianas looks like a fairly basic holiday sandal: a rubber sole, two straps and a range of bright colours. But this simple Brazilian shoe has emerged as a global brand - and one that is likely to herald the arrival of many other emergent brands from the "new world", where entrepreneurs in countries such as China, India, Argentina and South Africa are developing plans for brands that they hope will rival names such as Nike and IBM.
       As the world gets smaller, thanks to the Internet and other communication innovations, consumers are always in search of great novelties. Consequently, it's only natural for us to look at Brazil, a country with formidable growth potential, a great culture and plenty of hungry entrepreneurs who want to make a difference in this new world. Given the size of the country, its economic and business potential, any good marketing professional should be curious about what is happening there. The Havaianas is case in point.
       At the beginning of the 20th century, Scotsman Robert Fraser arrived in Brazil and began manufacturing flip flops based on the traditional zori sandals brought to the country by Japanese immigrants. By 1958 he had developed the rubber version known as Havaianas - a name that he trademarked in 1962.
       The design of the shoe was basic and it was available only in a limited range of colours, but what it lacked in variety it more than made up in strength, durability, comfort and price. Within a year it was so popular with working Brazilians that Fraser's Alpargatas company was making more than 13,000 pairs every day; it was even part of the basket of staples that the Brazilian government used to calculate the increase in the cost of living. At the same time, tourists were packing the unique, colourful sandals, which they identified with their Brazilian holidays, into their suitcases and taking them home.
       However, sales slowed in the 1980s and in 1994 Alpargatas' management decided to reposition the brand as a fashion item. It added more colours and launched an advertising campaign showing celebrities wearing the shoes in an effort to appeal to middle-class buyers rather than being associated simply with working-class people. As the shoes were taken up by opinion leaders and stars such as Jennifer Aniston and surf champion Kelly Slater, it became socially acceptable to wear them in an ever-wider variety of circumstances. They even appeared on the runway during a John Paul Gaultier show and in the gift bags received by actors at the 2003 Oscars.
       The free publicity generated by international stars adopting Havaianas helped fuel the company's expansion into overseas markets. What had begun almost as a word-of-mouth expansion was given more structure and backed by aspirational advertising campaigns. Marketers were also very careful to adapt campaigns to the country. For example, when promoting the sandals to college students in the US, they maintained authenticity by not over-promoting the product, as this would have seen it lose its "cool" edge in this demographic. And in France the big export hit started during the 1998 Fifa World Cup but really took off when the French importer started to position the brand in the luxury market alongside leading designers such as Lacoste, Gaultier and John Galliano of Dior.
       However, at the centre of Havaianas' success was the formula used by most other successful new brands, wherever they are based: a dedicated, persistent and committed group of people created an innovative product that is genuinely meaningful for customers. They maintained a clear focus on that product and, thanks to the company's size, were also able to be more flexible than established competitors. Additionally, they worked to exploit their competitive formula in as many markets as possible and as fast as possible, making it harder for competitors to get a foothold.
       For a brand like Havaianas, the challenge will remain to be creative enough to bring exciting new products to the market while avoiding the complacency that sometimes follows success. Being relevant to consumers, being innovative and being better than the competition remains the old, the current and the future challenge of all companies around the world who want to survive and prosper, whether they originate in the old world or the new.

       Prof Dominique Turpin is IMD's director of the international seminar for top executives. IMD is a leading business school in Switzerland (www.imd.ch).

Italy's Geox puts best foot forward in Asia

       Geox, the Italian footwear brand known internationally for shoes that "breathe",expects to double sales in Asia Pacific next year with the Thai operation a part of the growth.
       The business of Geox has grown very well in Asia when compared with other parts of the world, particularly the US,where the recession has curbed demand,said Mario Moretti Polegato, the president of Geox.
       In 2008, the company sold 20 million pairs of Geox shoes worldwide. Of the total,36.2% came from Italy,46% from the rest of Europe, while North America contributed 5.9% and the rest of the world 11.9%. Only 3% came from Asia.
       But the company expects Asia's share will rise to 5% this year and double in 2010. It intends to achieve its goal with the launch of new product lines, new marketing and store concepts. The company sees huge potential in Asia because the number of middle-income customers is expanding, along with improvements in quality of life and the size of Asia's population.
       "We entered the footwear market only 14 years ago but have become one of the leaders in this sector and rank second in the worldwide market. There is a huge market potential for our young Geox brand to expand in the future," Mr Polegato said.
       The success of Geox rests on the technology of the shoe that breathes but also Italian know-how, style and design.
       "The economic downturn will benefit Geox because in these tough times, customers will look for quality products with fashion and comfort content," he said, adding that the company had international patents that protected it in more than 100 countries.
       Mr Polegato said the company believed in the potential of Thailand, the first country Geox chose when it first entered Asia.
       Thai customers have good taste and Italian fashion brands are among their favourites item, he said, adding that the breathable shoes were also very suitable for Thailand's climate.
       AA Footwear Co Ltd is the distributor and producer of Geox in the Thai market.The Italian company has also hired a subsidiary of Saha Group, one of the country's largest footwear and consumer product manufacturers, to produce some Geox shoe models for export. Mr Polegato did not disclose the quantity ordered from Saha Group.
       "Though there are political problem,we are optimistic about Thailand, where the demand comes from both local people and tourists. Political problems take place in every country, even Italy. But we are confident we will continue our businesses," he said.
       The company plans to open 150 new Geox shops this year, down from 245 opened in 2008.
       Geox had net sales worldwide of 892.5 million last year. Its net sales were 482.9 million in the first half of this year and full-year sales are expected to be on par with last year because of the poor global economy.

Rising middle class revives Asian textiles

       Asian textiles, once considered a fading industry, are now showing strong growth prospects thanks to technology and demand from expanding middle classes, a leading industry player said.
       Known in the past for back-alley shops churning out cheap material, many Asian firms are shedding their sweatshop image as they move to compete in the global market, said Paul Hulme, president of Huntsman Textile Effects(HTE).
       Stricter environmental standards required by Western countries are also prompting consolidation and innovation in the industry, said Hulme, whose firm is one of the world's top suppliers of textile dyes and chemicals. It moved its headquarters from Basel, Switzerland to Singapore in March to be closer to its Asian customer base.
       "These sweatshops and poor facilities - that is changing," Hulme said in an interview at the company's corporate offices overlooking Singapore's central business district.
       "When I visit our customers, I's impressed with the facilities in terms of the equipment, in terms of the housekeeping standards and the way they treat their employees," he said.
       "I would not pretend that sweat-shops don't exist and I'm sure you can go to parts of India and China where that very much is the case... But I think that image will change."
       A key driver for the industry's modernisation is Asia's growing middle class, whose clothing tastes are becoming more sophisticated.
       Hulme said the global textile dyes and chemicals market is worth US$16 billion(Bt136 billion), and Asia accounts for some 45 per cent of the total consumption, much of it destined for export markets outside the region.
       One year after the global financial crisis exploded, Asian economies are rebounding faster than the West, boosting the textile industry's hopes.
       "The market is changing, customer taste and demand is changing. For example, as you go into the provinces in China, the spending power is increasing," said Hulme.
       "In this business, the future is in Asia. It's going to be driven from Asia, not from Europe and America," said Hulme. "You've got to be part of the region."
       China, Bangladesh and India are the world's top textile producers and are also major consumers. Pakistan and Southeast Asia are important and growing players as well.
       Apart from apparel, a major driver for the industry is demand for "technical textiles" or fabrics used in cars, mattress covers, bags, tents and parachutes, among others, Hulme said.
       Car fabrics that do not fade easily even in extreme heat enhance the vehicle's resale value, and there is rising demand for fire-resistant materials in the construction sector as well, he said.
       In the medical field, chemicals are incorporated in surgeons' gowns to repel blood and dirt, raising the hygiene level.
       As Asia's spending power rises, "people want to buy different products and that's going to lead to the development of a whole new market for technical textiles which didn't exist before," said Hulme.

FOOTWEAR-MAKER GEOX EXPECTS ASIAN SALES CONTRIBUTION TO DOUBLE NEXT YEAR

       Italian footwear-maker Geox expects Asian sales to double to 10 per cent of global turnover next year thanks to rapid growth in the region compared with markets like the US and Europe.
       Aldo Somaini, managing director, Geox Asia Pacific, said last week that the Asian market's contribution in terms of sales so far this year was 5 per cent.
       Geox last year sold more than 20 million pairs of shoes. It expects to maintain that number in 2009.
       Somaini said Geox was very confident that the contribution from Asia would double to 10 per cent next year because it believed that Asian consumers trust that the Geox brand will give them value for money. The company also plans to add stores in major shopping centres across the region.
       Geox shoes are ranked second in the Asian market in terms of sales.
       Company president Mario Moretti Polegato said last week that the Asia market so far this year showed better growth than the US and some European countries. The US had the highest sales drop.
       However, Polegato, who was recently ranked Italy's sixth-richest person by Forbes magazine, does not have a special marketing plan for emerging Asian markets, believing that sales in its major destinations will recover in line with the global economic situation. "We see an opportunity in Asian countries such as China. We have 120 shops in that country, and we also sell Geox in 7,000 shops there run by local partners. We expect to increase the number of shops in China," he said.
       Geox plans to increase the number of its shops by 150 locations around the world this year. It has so far opened 14 in Asia.
       Polegato said Thailand had been an important market for Geox since becoming the first country in Asia to introduce the brand 11 years ago. Thailand is also one of the two countries authorised by Geox to produce shoes for the domestic market. The other country is Japan.
       Jane Chongsatitwatana, assistant president, AA Footwear - the distributor of Geox in Thailand - said Geox's sales in the Thai market had increased by 3 per cent so far this year, over the same period last year. The company expects the number to climb to 10 per cent by year-end.

MIYAKE'S PLEATS PLEASE COLLECTION SPREADS THE WINTER CHEER

       Issey Miyake has some honenstly vivid colours in his Pleats Please autumn-winter collection,which has arrived at the Siam Discovery Centre after after bouncing eyebrows around in Paris, London,New York and Milan.
       Club 21,the line's distributor,unveiled the collection last Friday with the focus on with hopes,dreams and the bravery to fly freely,as symbolised in hi5 choice of prints,shapes,textiles and techniques.
       Vivid orange,parking lime,bright yellow,shocking pink and ocean blue are dominant, though black, grey and beige maintained a classic presence.
       The designs are minimal,smart and chic.
       The "Colourfulness"line boasts the bold and overlapping shades of a speed racer and the vivid colours of a hang glider.Diagonal lines convey vibrancy,and natural gradations and a generous use of fabric make the series comfortable to wear.
       Caasual outfits in plain hues include knee-length pants and skirts,loose trousers,angle-jumped pants,sleeveless blouscs,tank tops,shirts,coats and jackets with hoods.
       The dresses get colourful graphic prints for extra elegance.All of this is given added impact thanks to unconventional techniques in the cutting and sewing,which are completed before the pressing rather than after.
       The possibilities for mixing and matching seem endless-shirts can even be worn upside down.A bright-yellow sleeveless blouse teams with a vivid orange skirt,a purple scarf with red stockkings.An ocean-blue blouse and matching trousers look great with multicoloured jackets.
       The pressing methodology and an unusual silhouette add volume to the series "Fluffy Pleats","Flying Discus"and ""Tulle Dance",all of which use lightweight cloth.
       Inspired by kites and bllons, Miyake prints them on the back of his dresses to carry the wearer aloft.
       His scarf is an artwork,with volume and multiple functions.It can tie over a tank top as a belt,wrap the head or double for jewellery.
       The bags range from balloon bags made of waterproof canvas to basket-like bags of small,two-tone polyester plates.

Indonesians told to celebrate batik "victory"

       Indonesia's president is pressing the country's 234 million people to wear batik clothes to celebrate a triumph over neighbour Malaysia in a poisonous feud over cultural heritage.
       The UN cultural organisation Unesco is set this week to add Indonesia's method of making the cloth - through a laborious process of wax-dipping and dyeing to its list of the world's Intangible Cultural Heritage.
       President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono has instructed Indonesians to celebrate the day the decision becomes official,tomorrow, by donning their best shirts,dresses, blouses and sarongs made from the material.
       "I urge Indonesians wherever they are to wear batik on Oct 2," Mr Yudhoyono was quoted as saying by state news agency Antara.
       Mr Yudhoyono said the country should have a "batik party" to let the world know that the artform comes from Indonesia.
       Many Indonesians say the use of batik techniques and motifs by Malaysians is outright plagiarism.

Friday, October 2, 2009

Sophisticated urban

       World leading Swiss fashion brand Bally introduces its Autumn/Winter 2009 collection for both men and women under Brian Atwood, the brand's creative director.
       According to Atwood, the women's collection was inspired by Helmut Newton's iconic portraits of Charlotte Rampling and Bianca Jagger.
       "I am constantly mesmerised by his ability to create luxury out of simplicity. Taking this inspiration as a starting point, I wanted to create a collection that captures the excitement, energy and creativity of urban life," he said.
       The women's collection highlights a rich palette of colours and textures, with metallic accents. A delicate yet graphic floral print was created in devore. Both in black and a hand-painted burst of colour, this fabric then carries across the collection, including shoes, accessories and readyto-wear.
       A very graphic, slightly gothic lace has also been created in gold metal; heels, platforms,bags and jewellery featuring this gives the entire range an elegant edge. In addition, a few elements were plucked from different eras such as the Arabian influence of the '30s, and the tailored sophistication of the '80s.
       The star shoe of the collection is a classic T-bar Mary-Jane whose heel and platform both have lace patterned gilding and are available in a vast array of colours and materials. Ankle,knee-high and thigh-high stretch suede boots feature a 130mm gold lace 'cage' heel, and giltedged platform.
       For daywear, luxurious satchels in pleated nappa, laminated gold kid, natural and jewel coloured snakeskin, embellished with gold hardware, are chic and effortless. Clutches and minaudiere feature prominently, with cleverly designed interiors.
       The ready-to-wear range has a sophisticated and soft-flowing silhouette. Metallics are threaded throughout the collection to create a certain sparkle: long flowing marabou cardigans are laced together with chain; a patent leather lace jacket has a network of delicate chain holding it together; full draped jackets come in jewel tone wools and animal prints.
       Rich fabrics are gathered and elegantly draped to create a relaxed look. Soft leather turbans,low-cut driving gloves and patchwork lace tights give the looks a daring young finish that is simply urban.
       For men, Brian Atwood has created a collection to capture the tangible energy and creativity of city life."Originally I was concentrating on interpreting a classic tailored look, when I saw an amazing shot of Steve McQueen working on his motorcycle; instantly the collection came together - clean, modern and simply urban," he said.
       Green, grey and black are the statement palette of the collection. Although these are accented with hints of colour, the true core feature is texture. Shoes, bags, belts, jackets, trousers, even motorcycle helmets all are offered in a wide range of textures.
       The shoe collection is sleek, sharp, elegant and ultimately modern. For the main; classic Oxfords, monk strap loafers and Chelsea boots,all come in lustrous, warm colours, finished with stitching details. There are also classic combat boots with chunky zippers.
       The bag collection is simply sophisticated.Clean lines are supported by sumptuous textures,shearling, ostrich, washed python and blanket wool. Key shapes are the elongated document bag and the oversized satchel/shopper.
       The travel collection features purpose-built pieces: trolleys, 24- and 48-hour weekenders,computer cases, a men's shoe carrier, as well as small leather goods. This entire range has clean modern lines with multi-layered, highly-organised compartments including removable pouches to ensure everything is well protected, including laptops.
       The ready-to-wear features an eclectic mix of textures, materials and prints. Here the vest of a traditional 3-piece suit is replaced with finely knit jumpers or cardigans, often in an animal print.
       A hand-tailored jacket is paired with jeans originally inspired by motocross trousers. The traditional suit shirt is replaced with silks and cottons cut pajama style, and completed with a skinny leather tie.RT
       Shoes and bags come in a rich palette of colours and textures, with metallic accents.
       BALLY AUTUMN/WINTER 2009
       The new collection by Brian Atwood,the brand's creative director,captures the excitement,energy and creativity of urban life.

DEMURE IN DENIM

       If you're into jeans, enjoy splurging on new pairs of skinny, straight or bootcut at Levi's shops and Levi's corners in leading department stores and receive some special offers. From now until Oct 31, the American brand is giving away a t-shirt (worth B690) when you buy a pair of jeans and another Levi's product, or buy two pairs of selected denim and get a 25 per cent discount. For more details call Levi's Mega Store 02-613-1466.

Indonesians told to celebrate batik "victory"

       Indonesia's president is pressing the country's 234 million people to wear batik clothes to celebrate a triumph over neighbour Malaysia in a poisonous feud over cultural heritage.
       The UN cultural organisation Unesco is set this week to add Indonesia's method of making the cloth - through a laborious process of wax-dipping and dyeing to its list of the world's Intangible Cultural Heritage.
       President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono has instructed Indonesians to celebrate the day the decision becomes official,tomorrow, by donning their best shirts,dresses, blouses and sarongs made from the material.
       "I urge Indonesians wherever they are to wear batik on Oct 2," Mr Yudhoyono was quoted as saying by state news agency Antara.
       Mr Yudhoyono said the country should have a "batik party" to let the world know that the artform comes from Indonesia.
       Many Indonesians say the use of batik techniques and motifs by Malaysians is outright plagiarism.