FASHION FAIR IN FOCUS

       Unlike the elaborate spectacle of a runway show, the Bangkok International Fashion Fair 2009 and the Bangkok International Leather Fair 2009 (BIFF & BIL) may not offer non-industry/business media any spicy material for publication; neither nipple slips nor dressed-to-kill front-row luminaries. However, such an international-calibre trade fair is nothing but meat and potatoes to the long-term development of any industry. And fashion is no exception. Held at Impact Challenger Hall, Muang Thong Thani, earlier this month, the event - organised by the Ministry of Commerce's Department of Export Promotion - incorporated a traditional form of brand booths, seminars, shows, workshops as well as various exhibitions that offered visitors an across-the-board spectrum of Thai fashion; both in terms of creative design, potential and business strategies for future direction.
       One role that all trade fairs need to fulfil is to bring manufacturers closer to buyers, which is particularly pivotal to budding brands that strive to survive through expanding their customer-base in both the domestic and international markets. The Designers' Room, mostly serves as a springboard for up-and-coming designers to test the market, a place deserving of close inspection to ensure that the section has functioned to its full capacity as the meeting point for designers and potential customers.
       Of the vast and diverse range of activities the fair offered, the Southern Culture & Fashion section came closest to reflecting the most interesting future direction of the local fashion design scene. Bringing trend, style and quality materials to highly skilled craftsmen in remote areas while bringing their own artistic touch back to top designers in the form of fabrics of exquisite prints, the programme successfully bridged the gap between contemporary fashion design and traditional craftsmanship - a promising direction for the future of the Thai fashion industry.
       THE YOUNG AND THE RESTLESS No sooner than the exclusive launch of their new collection had just premiered last month, the collective of hard-working designers, Bangkok Fashion Society, were busying themselves once again for BIFF & BIL 2009, where they participated in several programmes to represent the image of contemporary Thai fashion. But was their celebrated appearance and special sales campaign sufficient to ensure the aspired number of visitors during the four-day event? 'Muse' talked to designers of various generations about their participation in Thailand's biggest fashion trade fair.
       Looking back eight years ago when BIFF & BIL first unleashed a new zone to serve as a space for the next generation of designers, the Designers' Room has not only become a shortcut for young fashion entrepreneurs, but it is also now a centre of origin for all Bangkok fashion hot lists-to-be - one role you can say the Designers' Room has been filling successfully.
       "I also started from here," said T-ra Chantasawasdee of T-ra, who is among the first generation of designers to emerge from the Designers' Room and was again a representative there this year in its "Next" section.
       "It's like a stage where a spotlight is directed at us before we develop other elements of our fashion careers such as brand building and manufacturing for the export market. However, I think there still remains some ongoing problems that prohibit the fair from doing more for the Thai fashion scene."
       Propelling the local fashion industry is the goal of the government sector, which undoubtedly had this in mind when they initiated the fair. However, the problems the fair presents aren't due to the lack of potential of the designers or the limitations of production infrastructure as much as many might think. Instead, the organisation of the fair and the lack of strategy standards to provide visitors with accurate and useful information is more to blame.
       "I think the zoning, public relations approach and the format of the fair may not yet be clear and attractive enough," pointed Kloset Red Carpet's Nat Mangkang, who has become an international fashion fair regular thanks to Kloset's popularity overseas.
       It's undeniable that this year's Designers' Room received special attention compared to previous years, with all participating brands being divided into three groups: 20 in "New", designers who have just started their brand; 32 in "Now", the brand is firmly founded and developing; and 12 in "Next", brands with potential to expand to the international market. Joining these 60-plus brands were BFS members to give the event an added attraction.
       Despite incorporating participation from diverse players in the fashion industry, including the textile sector, BIFF & BIL somewhat received less attention than expected. "This is probably due to the current economic crisis and social problems as well as the location. This year's fair is quite quiet," said Prachaya Chaikeeree, a designer from Phil who participated in the "New" section. In addition, he further pointed out that many saw the fair as more of a market for picking up good, simliar to a factory outlet, rather than a fashion showcase, which it was intended to be.
       "Of course we have some good interaction from investors and buyers, but in general many people see it as a sales fair," he said.
       In agreement with Prachaya's remarks, Nat elaborated that more brands and better categorisation are essential in giving the fair a boost. "Big brands alone cannot attract the general public. And it's necessary to have a clear and strong image that encapsulate the essence of Thai fashion in order to trigger their interest."
       Problems aside, participating brands - both regulars and newcomers - could see a bright path ahead. "I think it's one channel for us, where we can meet new groups of customers who have no opportunities to visit our shops. This is where they can meet us," said Saitarn Karncharanwong of Papercuts and The Pencil Sharpener, a participant in the "Now" section. "Whether they come here for the sales or to really check out our collections, we still regard it as one important way to increase customer's awareness of our brand."
       But is simply boosting the level of brand awareness sufficient to propel the fair into becoming an international trade fair in the long run?
       "It's not that [Thailand] receives little attention from international buyers. Take Chatuchak Weekend Market, for example. A large number of international buyers visit there to find stuff to sell in their own shops," Nat explained.
       "And that's because Chatuchak is truly an all-in-one centre for goods. There needs to be a vast diversity of products to promote a buying atmosphere instead of being just an exhibition and fashion showcase."
       But in the end, everyone seems to agree that the potential of Thai designers and the number of quality brands in the Kingdom are sufficient enough to propel the Thai fashion scene to a better level, hopefully assisted by an extra shot in the arm from the government sector.
       "We also have the opportunity to participate in a fair in Paris, which is such great support from the government," said T-ra, who also revealed that the 12 brands in the "Next" section will participate at the Pret-A-Porter trade fair in a few weeks time - certainly a good attempt at pushing the Designers' Room to become a strong project that contributes to designers more than just a one-off appearance at BIFF & BIL.
       Despite the small number of visitors and low amount of orders placed, one thing all the designers agree on - even during this economic slump and political mess - is that they are confident of a better future for the Thai fashion industry so long as the government continues its ardent support.
       "Every fair has both good and bad points. But what we all gain is experience, which accumulates every year and enables us to move slowly forward as we intend to," T-ra concluded.